[Death Valley] Drive from Vegas to Reno

I'm sitting at gate C6...Alaska Airlines...in Reno. A slot machine is making tiki-tiki-tak sound behind. Yday was dha meeting. The day before is when I drove from Vegas to Reno...via a beautiful, beautiful terrain.

Last weekend I was in Lubbock...and the flight to Denver...it took off then landed again because one of the 3 hydraulics failed...I didn't know what it meant...but midair I was thinking...all this...everything can come to an end just like that. I just felt thank you and expressed lot of love to everyone connected. And then I put my passport inside my pant pocket...:)) the person sitting next to me...observed :) then I was ready for whatever.. but we landed quite smoothly. Took another plane from Denver to Vegas.

Many years ago, I saw an image of death valley's cracked up land in one inflight magazine I think...or was it natgeo? it stayed with me...it seemed like nothingness. where there's nothing...nothing...lowest point...it's minus 282 feet below sea level (mumbai is 46 feet above sea level)....driest place in America...apparently, there were humans here 9,000 years ago. I kept reading Shoshone Shoshone...it's a tribe...occupied 1,000 years ago.

**
Ah, I'm in Mumbai now...few days later. It's afternoon 2.20pm on a sunday. Aa is doing his comprehension. I ate something from fatty bao.

Where was I?

Ya, I never even started. That morning I was in that las vegas hotel. they upgraded me to one large suite. There was this big room...then another bedroom...with one big tub. I took bath in the big tub in the morning. And left. I was too bored with vegas the previous night...and hardly stepped out of my hotel. I was also tired. I remember eating some burrito.

That morning I started driving early. Called mummy and nana on the way. She feared the name...death valley. It amused me. The road was nice and long...i felt happy getting out of vegas...the skies opened up...the land opened up. and then began to look like Ladakh...same rough terrain...sand, rough and then snowy mountains in the distance. That thing of hot and cold at the same time. Ladakh is a cold desert. this seemed the same.

I didn't look at directions much before starting. Just some vague idea. I had a paper map. Then somewhere along the way...I saw a sign that took left. There was one of those cabin toilets. I peed there. Then decided to keep going...so that road cuts into california. It seems to be route 160 that I took then I took a left. It was only then that I realized death valley is in california...i thought it was nevada.

I didn't know what to expect. What I had come there to see. But here was Nature all abound. Dry. Rough terrain. I felt happy. there was nothing there. nothingness. very early on, there were some cabin type houses or restaurants...that seemed closed or protected from rough weather. that feeling one gets.

I stopped at some point...I had to pay an automated machine to enter death valley. Some $30 or so. I met the park ranger type lady...she was putting a newsletter there. I requested her to take a pic. And took one newsletter myself. And continued on. I think I spoke 2-3 people that day...she was one.

Soon I reached the inner areas of death valley...there were signs to indicate that I was going below sea level. It started getting hot. Along the way I think it had rained too. I reached Badlands...that was the first point where I stopped. A longish windy road (you had to walk) takes you up to the view point. If I had time, I could've trekked here and there. It looked stunning. Wavy, wavy mountains...like waves of ocean but it's land...yellowish, brownish, orangish...vast...all around. I really felt happy.

There were many Japanese and Chinese tourists taking pics, walking, doing their thing.

I kept driving again. I reached Furnace Creek. there was a visitor center where I bought cards...I didn't have more water or food..I got both those. Bought some gifts too I think. Continued on. I didn't think much of Furnace Creek except that it suddenly got very hot. I didn't have time to go back to the lowest point. The lady said the cracked land thing shows up only after rains.

I went further to one deviation. Looking at google maps, I figure I was on 190. But I can't believe I was there in that terrain...it looks surreal. there was one point where it seemed like no man's land...bauxite was on the ground...some minerals...whitish...i touched it...it seemed very sulphur like...then I thought why did I touch it. I didn't have so much water to wash or even sanitizer. Anyways...I went inside, inside one route...and then got back to the main road.

I kept driving. I knew I was gaining altitude...going out of death valley. I got a text from ed. about some complaint etc. It distracted me. But anyways here I was...beautiful mountains now...green and such...I was taking the longer route...may be 1 hour more. but I took longer eventually.

I realized I was on the other side of Sequoia...I was in Sequoia and Kings Canyon last year...the mountains..Sierra mountains divide the land. How different it looks here? How different it looks there. I passed through a desert...sand was blowing. I opened the windows and some sand came in. I wanted to explore more, more but I was also aware I had to reach Reno for my meeting the next day. Sleep early etc.

On the way it snowed...I was surprised...I saw desert, harsh sun, rain and now snow. I enjoyed it. It looked now like I was in some fairy tale place...the trees...like christmas trees with snow on it...how beautiful it was wah!

I stopped here and there.

Haan I remember this lake...Mono lake. https://www.google.com/maps/@37.9769317,-119.1354837,3a,60y,49.49h,86.81t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1szbYcA6nlYZmjfwYTEGO8CQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

It looked so beautiful like Manasarovar. It looked so similar...a lake amongst high passes. It's on the other side of Yosemite.

I kept driving...I reached Reno after a long time...during the final part of trip I was talking to srik. I had no desire to go left to Lake Tahoe etc. I reached Reno after some 10-12 hours of driving.

[Dominican Republic]: Part 2

I'm now sitting in United Airlines flight. I was upgraded after two India trips. And thanks to that I made it on today's flight even after reaching the airport so late. Nana kept saying but I didn't heed. Took my own time to shop, had tamarind juice and when I reached the UA counter they had closed it. Then I went inside those rooms behind the ticket counters and requested the lady and had to rush rush. Even if I hadn't rushed after security I would've been OK but still... When I cut line requesting, one man said why did you come late. Traffic I half lied. I should've said yes, it was stupid of me to arrive late.

I didn't sleep very well last night. Stayed at that island life hostel. It's nice but something too clean and well laid out, very american/european. For backpackers. It's OK sometimes. I was the only one to pin their map from Hyderabad. It was nice to speak to Mummy and Nana from there and also do my marketing weekly call (I was sitting at the bar like counter trying to get a good wifi signal that morning). Meaning it's easier to do everything remotely. AT&T even calls via wifi. 

Back to DR. I went to the Museum of Revolution. It gives a good perspective. In 1930s onwards there was thus dictator called Rafael Trujillo. Ruthless. Transferred all contracts to his businesses. Killed 1,000-30,000 non white people in the name of gentrification. Craziness of our world. If it's only for this reason I hope everyone gets a DNA test done to know where actually they are from. Then there was a revolution (Lelu even posed with two fingers viva revolucion he said). There was one odd exhibit of the revolution leader. It moves and his speech in background. People singing after.

My head is aching with that sunstroke type thing. (It went away with 1 glass orange juice and 4 glasses of water).

I stayed in Zona Colonial a historic district that's also very touristy in a somewhat good way. They are doing a good job with security and how they maintain the ruins. Christopher Colombus first arrived here. His statues are there. America's first church, first hospital it is all here. A lot has happened in the last 400 years. I mean a rapid, rapid change in our world.

When you actually be with the people, eat their food, breath the air, you somehow remember. I mean our body, our mind knows. We are all so interrelated. We fight because we've forgotten. We think they are different. We think we are different. We hardly are.

Even as we advance with our modernity culturally every place has gotten similar. Uber. Fast food. Mobile phones. Music. Work. Families. Like 80% similar and then some. Then we all have our local stuff like bachata or merengue music in dominican. And then we think my culture, my culture is so great etc. Then we find other people and cultures exotic. Like Miguel the driver of the shared taxi he got so excited to know I'm from India. He did the flowers in hair action and said muy buen for Indian women. Like they do with the fingers. I repeated it in the Uber to the airport with shoot I forget his name Vladimir yes...Vladamir showed me the blue water - it's after the toll area. So blue he kept saying. It was. Muy buen. Very good. He used his finger closing kissing action :)

The hospital I walked in the ruins. There were birds sitting in the ceiling. Something about it. Who would've thought then that hospitals in America would be a thing. 

I walked a lot. Let's see. 2km today. 11.8km yday. 8.1km day before. 11.5km first day. It was nice and sunny. My sun ka headache is gone now. People say it's not safe etc. I didn't exactly find it so. Well it's like any other city. Like NY or Joburg. There are safe areas. There are unsafe areas. 

We need the cities. They are the lifeblood of countries. Connecting one country to the other. They help us pool our resources and build airports for others to come and visit. They make it easy for us by having things we are used to like credit cards and Uber. And they breed problems too from crime to drugs. Late night one drunk called out to me senor senor I ignored. But I walked even in the not lit areas. I liked.

People play dominoes all the time. Like big people mostly. Blaring music. Dominoes. In the rural side, they are simply sitting and watching life go by. I guess that's how it is in India too and elsewhere. Just sitting peacefully. Not rushed. Not feeling that they are missing out on things. Coconut trees (that boy who resembled Jeetu in the shared taxi - he kept trying to make me understand about some coconut and farm). Hot sun. Pollo shops everywhere. I saw one guy cut up Pollo (chicken) with big cutting pliers with a yellow handle. It was odd to see an freshly dead being, inverted, roasted cut up that way with big pliers. 

I ate Haitian food last night at a place called Maison Kreole. Everyone wants you to have a good time with their culture. Had Prestige beer which was stronger than Presidente which I liked. Had how many 6 half bottles this week. It's so hot it just disappears. Anyway my workout has gone for a toss.

I liked going back to that Columbus square. The statue it's weird. Like Columbus is standing tall. And a barely clad young women is trying to climb up to him. Really tells women men attitudes back then.

I got by with Google Translate. But the thing is if they don't know how to write its pointless. I didn't have internet. They spoke too fast. I just said whatever I'd want say. Not understand most of what they said. They didn't understand most of what I said. But yet we connected. Some of us. It was easy to know. Talking, talking and language is a bit overrated. It may be causes more disturbance than helping. We don't have to do anything. We just sometimes simply connect.

Before going to Samana, I took a motorcycle taxi. Surprisingly he was from Serbia. His name was Dalibor. Looked in his late 30s. Very thin. Red t-shirt. I think he said his family or 6 yr old son is in Serbia. His friend from Bosnia came to work as a chef and asked him to come over. But he didn't want to work in the restaurant but he liked the motorcycle taxi life. Everyone has a story. He has a Haitian wife here. I asked him if he'd show me the city. So he did. Took me all around. Rich areas first. Where he said some apartments cost $2m (or did he mean 2m pesos). And government areas. President's house muchas grande (it's a huge palace like structure). He showed me the hotel where Godfather movie was shot. There he used his fingers curling kissing action too. We ate at a Dominican smart casual place. In the end he asked for two thousand (double what I expected). I gave him anyways. Both he and I knew it was more. But he needed the money more. We hugged and he kept indicating his fist to his heart when we left.

I was just there for 3 nights. But it means a whole lot.

Dominican = happy.

[Dominican Republic]: Part 1

I'm sitting in an ac bus. Caribe tours. the driver crosses speed limit every now and then and it goes keee keee sound. I'm typing on the phone.

Can't believe that I came to DR only day before. Let me back up. I had no idea I'd be here. At all.

Before the bus, I was with Lelu and Hans from Germany and Andreas on a boat to two playas - Fronton and Madama. Lelu is born and brought up in Las Galeras where I was. Lelu has got lots of curly hair and athletic and has two ninos. Lelu taught me swimming. We went snorkeling. What beautiful white sand. It's always a wonder to go under water. White transparent fish. Colorful fish. They seem to have a smile like a drawing on their face. It was funny. Like someone actually drew a smiling fish with a color pencil. I just saw they are on the northeastern tip of the country  Crazy is that where I was? Grigeri who rented me a room was surprised. She was sitting in a bra (it's very hot and humid) and sipping something with another friend. Grigeri is very dark and must be in her 70s. She made nice coffee in the morning.

It was Daniel (beard no mustache) who called out to me... I had done kriya on the beach and was playing the fool before. Taking pics. Climbing coconut tree. I slept very very well after so many days. More than 8-9hrs. Sound restful sleep after a long time. Thanks g. 

Yday night I walked around Las Galeras Pueblo. Nice. I walked into a church gathering. It was nice to see the locals do their thing. Religion unifies. When you you feel nothing is in your control it's a relief to believe that there is a God who is in control. And you can pray and someone will take care of your things for you. Contrary it'll feel very heavy to think that you yourself are responsible for everything. There was a small little girl walking all over. Her mother kept running after her. The mother seemed in her teens. A dark man with mustache and tie was speaking or preaching. There was music. A speaker that was croaking. One lady said hi to me acknowledging my visit. I swayed with them while they were dancing.

I'm in the town.. Lots of young people. They work as taxi on motorcycle. They race. Do wheelies. Even carry Presidente beer while driving. It's generally a nice quiet town. I ate the most amazing vegetarian paella last night. The chef was European (unkempt beard). Morning I ate at a French place. Very nice smiling lady. Salt was little more in the omelette. They all are amused with my face or rather find it different...many have never seen an Indian...they circle their finger around their face, smile, say Indio and indicate something that means nice. I could pass off as Mexican (that's what the man on the beach thought - another guy circled his finger near his head saying the man was mad). Until I open my mouth. My softer hair is also an amusement. Theirs is very textured and course which is also very nice. That gives the natural curls. Unlike the Spanish, here I am their color but different hair.

I met one Italian lady - again friendly - in the shared taxi. She works as a nanny to Europeans who moved here. I met two kids who tried hard to make me understand about some coconuts and farm and if I drank it etc. I like the shared taxis. People get in. Get off. The Italian said she loves it here because people smile. They sip Presidente. They are happy.

Hans told me of a mechanic who made 4,000 euros in Switzerland but returned home because life is better here. 

At Grigeri's place I met a French lady and her Dominican boyfriend (who wore cool glasses) while having coffee. She said TB was high and HIV was very high. She conducts health education programs. 

Haan..how did I go to Las Galeras? One taxi guy in Samana offered to take me here for 45 dollars but I declined. But I thought of going to the place. Then I asked a motorcycle taxi guy to take me. I couldn't understand a word of what he said. But he showed me a shared taxi that was going in that direction. "Las Galeras" "Las Galeras" Nodding. Nodding. I went. What a wonderful ride. Breeze. I was sitting on top at the back of the vehicle. It was beautiful to first see the Caribe sea from that side. I actually didn't know where exactly we were going. Then I thought how does it matter? Whether it's Las Galeras (I didn't even know the town existed a half hour ago) or whatever village or town. I'll get off where it stops finally. 

How did I go to Samana? The yellow t-shirt ticket lady (who looks a bit like chaitnya) at the caribe tours suggested. So I went. The Uber driver had said Constanta mountains. But that bus was leaving only at 5p and four hour ride. So I chose this. 2.30p and 2.5hour ride. "Beautiful place Samana," she said. I met a retired military General while waiting for the bus (behind his hat it said gral. cuevas). He was also visiting and seeing Samana. He said Samana beautiful like how the locals do by bringing all their fingers together and pursing their lips and almost offering a kiss with the fingers. Beautiful. It was. It reminded me of the day with pd in Thailand koi Yao noi. So many years ago now. Time keeps on cruising. 

And why did I go to Dominican Republic? I've always found them friendly and attractive. Like a vibe and energy. Happy. The other day last week... two days before I traveled I went to kayak and put Newark to Anywhere and put duration and price restrictions. Dominican seemed doable. I deliberated for a bit. I called the embassy and they said I didn't need visa if I had US visa (I liked the interaction). And the Uber driver who dropped me from that fellows meeting Lilunette was from Dominican. So I thot it was like a sign. I booked before I could change my mind. It's right next to Haiti and there are several island countries. 

Why did I go anywhere at all? I wasn't even supposed to be here in the US. Sm couldn't travel to ny. I decided on a saturday morning that I'll travel that night. And I was there the next monday for the mtg. had a busy week. and one particular meeting on thursday I think had a wtf moment. It snowed that day. My cell ph went out of charge. My hands froze. I finally reached a dunkin donuts and the lady helped me charge. then I called uber and went home. At some point that day I knew I had to get out.

So...so many things are inter-linked, interlinked. whom do I thank for DR?

I would've liked to swim properly (Lelu kept saying tranquilo, relax, tranquilo, relax). Saw one guy who was deep in the water. Lelu said don't go so far. He said America, America. Don't know what he meant. We meet so many people we never meet again. And yet we are all so connected. 

I'll write later now about Santa Domingo. 

[Tibet]: Final words...

hmmmm...it was an interesting trip...I feel really sorry for Tibet...it's a loss...a deep loss...the culture, the people seemed confused...i don't know this thing about religion...why the desperation....each to his own yes...but still...i couldn't feel that thing inside...i tried yes...the human condition is about wanting to be understood...to feel free...to be accepted without judgment...to feel light within...we all want that thing we know within...sometimes it happens, sometimes not...it was a coming back this journey...a lapse with much in between...life turned...many shifts...but to not be seen for the present...of a rolling past, of an unknown future...years roll...i think about the body...it's a blessing...it's changed...stronger...got that summits book...the journeys...scomfortable...a surrounding peace...but how can you have cities within a mountain...but that's what we'll make it in the name of development...all the solar panels...it's fine...the phone connectivity...it's fine...the new buildings, the roads it's fine...the jobs it's fine...but it all comes at a deep, deep loss that you can't put your finger on...what is it that we want? for what? and what do we do after we get that? and then what? what is it that we are losing? what is it that we are gaining? everything that happens touches at a very deep level and it takes a long time to allow it to leave you...but it never does...every experience adds...it connects...it mixes...it makes it something of its own...anyone's guess where it'll go from here...life...yes only at those times...the heart is not an  organ...but no one knows that...may be when we say heart we mean the soul...when we say mann we know not what we mean...and what about the soul of a region...of a people...of a time...of a mountain...does it matter? it'll be lost in the dusts of time...this region...these people...us...me...you...him...her...everything...like that moment in bhyrappa's parva...after the end of the battle...it's all lost anyways...the water washes everything over...i have nothing to say really...i feel sorry for the chinese too...what are you doing really? and what are you getting out of it? so what if they all become chinese? then what happens? what is chinese? even if you have a 200 year vision...so what? it's all a blink of time...to love truly, to be in love...to expand...and stay grounded at the same time...that's all there is to it...if you know then you know...that's that...

[Tibet]: The rest of the days...

The road to Saga was washed out. Meaning we couldn't get out of there. Apparently Times of India covered it...sz knew of it...s-hil told her...so we took a very long round-about...driving 2,000+km across tibet to reach the border with Nepal. Our Chinese driver was phenomenal...i really liked him...most efficient of the crew...he wore jeans, a maroon jacket and a t-shirt...hardly spoke a word...was smiling at the end of it all...with his cigarette...we were at an odd hotel behind the china-india canteen...oh well...

We were only driving...driving...driving...i took a dump behind a big pole advertising something...it was most relieving! :) the journeys mattered...human...clouds...vast skies...wonder...back in time differently...fun...time flew...and i knew it would...

The last night and second-half day was very difficult...may be most challenging. felt empty. long traffic jam on a mountain. mind is a funny thing. how to be present...when present is burning into past...there was distress...this-that...we got lost...finally reaching kathmandu...landslides...the next morning was farmer's market near the president's house...then afterwards tamr took us to dwarka hotel...very interesting architecture...i struggled to stay put...but time passes by as it does...everyone said bye...i packed the water...they said i left the water bottle cover, food, glasses inside...of course i did...gave to that man who gave tape...stared at space which seemed nice for awhile...shopping before that which was fine...and left nepal.

[Tibet]: Day 9, 10, 11, 12 - Kailash

We left everything in Darchen. Our bags were small...3 or 4 packed into one duffel provided by the operators. I don't have any notes...only memories.

It was a pleasant start...mostly with d. rivers were flowing through mountains...slow, gentle climb. our pace was steady...there was this old tibetan man (I'd say "tash-ta-de") with a walking stick...lines on his face...smiling...wide teeth...mustache...he could've been from peru or elsewhere...all the same...our faces are old...they connect...deeply...our lines are from our past...flowing into the present...

tibetan buddhists...doing the kora (parikrama)...by prostrating...someone said it takes them 13 days...but i didn't see people doing it all the way...some would get out of cars...she was wearing pink rubber slippers in her hands...while prostrating...it was interesting to see...bonn (pre-buddhist religion...nongchuk called it)...they were doing the kora anti-clockwise...even turning the wheel anti-clockwise...who's to know how to find god...your god...some greeted...om namah shivaya...some were on ponies...the tibetan horse-men and women looked fine...smiling...

there were breaks...methodical ones...i liked...disciplined it was...i liked...we ate lunch around 12.45? or was it after 1...perfect time...one bird came eating on our puris...we had alu-puri for packed lunch...it was very, very nice morning...time unfolded from a lost past...skies...they sent rain sometimes i think bcos i had my cover...my goretex...

hmmm...where did we stay? oh ya...it was a longish entrance to that place...shed...(kept saying the tour operator's name)...there was a first view of kailash...a couple of chinese women were taking pics across the bridge...we were in Diraphuk...Sadhguru was to arrive the next day...he stayed in an off-white tent...some waited, took pics...they had a satsang...Chinmayananda group had arti...mayr said, falacy of religion or something like that...i wondered why...everything is unto its own...allow things to be...you move through it...

Day 2
The next day...we were to trek up to the north-face of Kailash...while we all started together...d went from the other side...mm, tilk and i...then g...then others...on left...it went on...beautiful views of Kailash...very enjoyable...seemed so real upclose...i mean, it was real...i was sometimes chanting when alone...i don't know why...just wanted a medium to lose track of external environment and go within...i did...again and again...repetition reduces the noise outside...the things that attract senses...the alert mind slowly goes within...in that state...suddenly i found myself near d, mm, tilk...they were on or near a glacier...i don't have much memory of the time...d says i was on left (possibly she/they followed me but how did i move ahead...)...i wanted to go on ahead...and then suddenly we were slipping...going down, down on the ice (glacier covered by scree)...and below was a river...in an odd way, it was home ground...i was very connected with the earth...the surface...there was a big rock...i was holding onto it...but it would slip too...other rocks slipped...slowly we stood up...or held on...sticks...one after the other...g was below near the river (small stream)...he looked nervous when i asked him if he can hold onto sticks...and there was the bag...we took awhile...may be 20min...the others had caught up...they waited...mm and tilk were on the other side...mm making a swimming type action (apparently he meant it's all flat on top...i read it as swim or use your hands?!)...they went away...finally we turned back...then back further...taking pics...this and that...it was nice those moments...some shared human experience...

Tilk and mm returned 5 hours later...we were quite worried...met and spoke to the tibetan head person...to send a sherpa up into the mountains to find them...i remember his eyes...they were big, bulging...something one would say blood-shot...without the blood...the sherpa selected was also a good guy...better than our operators...but we saw our guys up near the flag area (where prash had said, all flags move separately on their own but still do the same thing)...

tilk and mm returned...they were in a diff zone...touched the north face of Kailash...found stones, horses (which seemed like personal effects of people who left them there...prash picked two pieces and gave me...i want to return those pieces to the earth)...g cried...mm also something...reiki that night...and that vicks on the feet that tilk msged about...it was fine...

neerj and mm were to go back the next day...his goretex didn't work...but it also didn't rain after...

Day 3
It was the day of the Dolma La pass...5,600+m...Dr M said on the trek to salkantay...when I asked him about bp and such...bcos Dr. Hegde said don't go up etc. so Dr. M said...go back to the point you've been earlier and see how you feel...i guess that was the reason this was imp or wanted to go about this body thing methodically...crossfit helped clearly...lungs, heart were good...i'm so used to being under-estimated/doubted...mathlab whatever...you have to do your thing...steady...like the tree...being like the tree of however you are wanted...so it was good...this day...

it started in a hurried way...taking dump last minute...rushed...wanted to take that nice kailash pic bcos it opened itself...didn't like the rush...

there were 3 ladies we met along the way...in the pic she closed her eyes ufff...she told me take a sip of the water...i did...flags...buddhist flags on top...loooong cross over...the pass...Dolma La is written in English in its own Chinese way...there was this man...who coughed...when i gave him strepsils he said he had (need lots of strepsils generally)...he took our pic across Gowri Kund (they said don't go down there)...it was fine...green-blue water...the down you had to be used to it...how to go down mountains...then it's easier...

we spent 45min or so at that dhaba down...drinking hot water...there was this boy/man who managed the china-India canteens...he would do this pranaam...the tibetans managing the dhaba...very rough conduct...long, long walk to Zuthulphuk...

We got there...it was nice this shed place...where we stayed...pakodas and tea we got...no bathrooms...all in open...the next morning tilk accompanied me to take a dump...a first for me to look at someone (even in darkness with the head-light)...while taking a dump! anj and others returned very late (9pm or so)...there was something about them returning...i somehow wasn't inclined to go and engage...was letting people be...mayr returned saying hey we helped mamiji get down etc.

Day 4
It was a really short day. We started early morning. Playing that movie-quiz game...it was a nice, pleasant walk...then we talked about favourite foods...bhrti said she liked ribs...ribs...:) nothing from home...d of course said rasam :)

horses would come in the way...towards the end...there was this vast view...mountains in the distance...and solar panels...clouds...vast, vast clouds showing the distance...d said of depth re photos...our eco bus hadn't arrived...it allowed me to go up, take pics...there was this yak horns...it had hair...the black hair...it was something...meaning it was telling me here was a living creature...

[Tibet]: Day 8 - Rakshas Taal, Darchen

We started around 11.30am...(I've written this)...in the eco bus...first stop was at Rakshas Taal...from top...there mm showed me...there were 2 or 3 islands...he's been here 6-7 times...once in the winter...when he simply walked on rakshas taal...to go to the islands...he told me about sven hedin...the swedish explorer...the miracles that have happened with him in the region (mm)...sven hedin had written about a gompa near the rakshas taal area...mm found a tibetan...no language communication...just name of gompa...he took him there...then mm told me a story from the travels of swami pranavananda...he and a fellow traveller/swami were stuck on one of the islands during one of the winters...they survived by taking eggs from a bird (storks or sea gulls)...then they returned to plains...one of them died...mm thought if he could've done it then...why wouldn't he explore now...the region has a deep significance for him...it was nice to see things through his eyes and hear his stories...

we went down to rakshas taal...everyone went down to take pics...didn't took own...beach like area...stones interesting stones...then we continued onto to Darchen...I was busy drawing...it was one of the most enjoyable drawing rides...i was lost...deep into Chiu Gompa...i took a pic...then started drawing...they wanted to touch the book...i wouldn't allow...would show from far bcos people were curious...it was a splendid time...

Darchen suddenly was a city/town again...a chinese one...clean roads...odd structures...red/yellow flags...we reached a large hotel...that had multiple buildings...we were housed in building #3...thankfully no floors...all flat one floor...isha group were near us...they had their own tea and stuff...fruits too...i missed fruits :) the canteen was nice...(on return, i went to the kitchen bcos of hot idlis...wanted to get it...)...there was one boy working there that mayr talked about...from mumbai...he lost all muscle...something.

mm made a nice presentation...kailash felt surreal...from google satellite pics...felt daunting too...i worried...discussion after re wont trek with you bcos etc....called home...thik hai i thot...let life play its part...but it turned out well the next day onwards...in my lost mind, i forgot where i left riche's bag while moving to the main area...searched isha buses...something.

[Tibet]: Day 7 - Thubba Ri climb (Manasarovar)

Originally, we were to go on an afternoon climb...but some of us were quite energetic in the morning after bfast...and decided to go up the Thubba Ri...right behind Manasarovar.

That morning, I went to the lake...actually both mornings I did kriya there...I'd take a dump (the bathrooms were clean...men on left, women on right (first time that gaddam man said, jaayiye)...for the second last bathroom, the door kept opening so I had to hold onto the latch which was a twine...by my mouth...what fun...i always used water!)...it was peaceful and nice. The second day...because of rain...I ran back...I didn't like that running back...bad idea with the altitude...because we were still acclimatizing...there was that black mountain dog that barked at me...and I asked him to be quiet and go away...I got many visions from the Lake...could easily connect and go back in time...

d and I started together...i remember saying it's nice to walk again...hiatus of 3 years or so...but it just changed quickly...d and tamr disappeared in half hour...different paths...i went through the right side...i kept looking for may be an hour or hour and a half...and then i thot chalo abhi just be...it was nice after...because it was simply me, my body, my being...the land, the lake...

(it's saturday...after returning...am having this white wine, home-made fries with mcd ka peri-peri powder...very tasty happy...body quickly loses capacity to wine...ahan's gone for akshat's bday party in st andrews...suz just back btw some saloon things...life moves all around...chhaaj vs chaas discussion :))

I don't know when I lost track of time and space...but it happened. I was unto my own. Kept seeing back to see Manasarovar in the distance...vast...spectacular...the sun shining brightly...i was in the red sherpa thing (only thing i had)...at one point tilk took pic...he and g were behind...didn't know them that much then...except g and i bunked together once...

there was a river flowing...from top...on its own here and there...winding...possibly joining Manasarovar from somewhere...outside or inside the earth...the earth loved me...holding me...grounded...around the time when I saw the green mycelium and white...something about it...i connected...letting out aka chords to the region...to the lake...and asked tell me about yourself...and the visions came...me in an ancient past...beyond shiva, beyond mythology, beyond sapiens...as a man, as a mother, as a daughter and son...connected deeply to the land...many creatures have roamed here...and me among them...the glaciers melted and settled as a lake...the water rejuvenating they said (12 rivers?)...but rakshas taal doesn't get the sources...so it's salty but manasarovar is not...is it sweet I don't know...I washed up in the evening...

Up there...i found an alter...a stone held up by the ground...i felt that was the point...i went around it, prayed to it even...enjoyed the moments, felt at peace...after that went up further...turned back after 3 hours...tilk and g wanted to go further...and they did...met others on the way back...mayr, king, rich etc.

there was one bird/insect...when you use your tongue to touch your palate and make a tthrrrr tthrrrr sound...that flying friend made that sound...i asked what are you telling me...said, be light, be light...but i realized i wasn't light later...may be i forgot the bird...it was a small bird...small little bird that flew fast...

Rakshas taal was on left...they said Ravana prayed or did tapasya there...and therefore no one dips...mm said the next day...in the winter, he walked on it...went to the islands...that it houses...it was a wonderful moment...on top when i saw rakshas taal from thubba ri, on top on the way further to darchen when mm showed (swami p...someone who along with someone was stuck in the winter...they ate eggs of that migratory bird to survive...then they did...when they returned...the other person died...something like that...sven hedin has written in his notes of a gompa...mm went with a tibetan he found randomly to find that gompa...he did...he kept talking of many miracles he's experienced in the region...)...haan back to rakshas taal...also when we reached the bottom...mm wanted to go near take pics...the group went...it was very hot, sand, sunny...we took pics too...it was super comfortable...

where am I? Dd told me about kahani and katha...kahani has a clear beginning and end...katha we don't know when you branch off...when you don't...katha...he says some interesting things...he's coming for dosa tomorrow...waiting...

Back from Thubba Ri climb (I set myself a clock...3 hours up and then return...i took 1 hr...45min down so did d...she returned after 3 too independently)...met riche and others on the way...on returning I saw the lame way the operators were...dorji non-existent...i lost it on the other boys...that they hardly know what it means to serve trekkers...to go elsewhere and learn...later I realized they knew what to do...they just didn't want to do it...anyway after the scolding...the others got some hot water...food etc.

i think it was that day...anj gave soup packets...dorji stamped on one unintentionally...we had soup...they showed some attention after...but i think there was another tiff...he said 120 degrees mein doonga when I asked for giving it hot...i snapped back...why do you talk like that...then i went to the kitchen tent...spent the time with them...explaining one more time...they stepped up but not so much...it's because the operators were problematic...the group became closer...a common problem...there's always a blessing...

it has to be that day...we went to the shops within the gompa...the kid (they said other kids did too)...the kid he had his pant open at the bum...so when he pooped...he'd be done, washed and shut...meaning the pant had an opening by the bum...his mom and dad owned one of the shop...mom she didn't wash her mouth had food sticking all around it...i wondered why...she made eggs that had water flowing out...I bought 2.5kg jerry can...king bought 3 hats...all transactions in yuan...d ate egg...(I'm eating chillies mixed with sev and onions now!)...

[Tibet]: Day 7 or 8 - Trugo Gompa live notes

Days are indeed flying. I've lost track. I'm dull this morning. Sort of bored? Yday was very interesting. Morning I did kriya by the lake. Water lapping slowly...a dog (mountain dog) came before I started. I told it to go away and allow me to do. I ate well - porridge, apple, bread, granola, coffee. People talking, talking. The vastness of Manasarovar is surreal. She told me how everything melted and settled as a lake. A lot has happened since. Many creatures have roamed these lands. I was here before. A shooting star went by in the wee hours of the morning as I sat there - I asked for peace to accept me as I am and to just be. Amy had given me that peace circle...it's in the green bag. It rained as soon as I finished. First slowly, then fast fast. I couldn't find those black quick-dry undies. I also think I left that pyjama pants in that Chinese hotel in Saga.

There was a deeply spiritual experience...the green mushrooms, mycelium. Then there was those small white mushrooms...soft texture...brain-like. The mind keeps going here and there. All the time. We kid ourselves to find what we seek here and there. Our cave is inside. So many things keep happening here and there - all around...kabhi this...kabhi that. What's the point?

May be I'm sleepy. People kept getting up. Sleeping late. Snoring. Brahma time 3.30am. Slept in spurts...

Conversation with Nongchuk...

d has a very good intuitive sense...natural...almost after first day, she said this guy can't be trusted...it turned out that way...anyway...this was my conv with him...our tibetan guide.

Born in 1975. Parents and grandparents were farmers. He lived in Mysore for 10 years...said he studied...math, physics, chemistry...all the basic subjects. Chinese officials threaten his family (will harm them) if he communicates with people in India. His sister is in India...Dharamshala or northeast. They communicate by WeChat and he's always concerned about the photos she sends...in case there's some tibetan flag in the background. Has a 13 year old daughter...wants to tell her about Buddhism etc. but never talks to her about Dalai Lama...if by chance, she utters...then she'll be de-barred permanently from school and education.

Earlier the tibetans couldn't afford healthcare...now the Chinese govt...provides free insurance...maternity is covered. So they started having more children...it's always interesting to see the link between policy and social change. It's sometimes so practical. Imagine being that child...born...because your parents got insurance...

We talked about bride price. Some chinese can't afford - car, house etc. that they need to give in order to marry. So they get married to Tibetan girls. Otherwise the mixing is very limited. Tibetans don't feel comfortable around the Chinese. They seem very afraid and nervous around them. He said...the driver and he won't sit together to eat.

Something about Panchen Lama...was arrested when he was 6 years. I have to read...but something about a Lama who was forced to marry into Chinese...then they said they'd allow him to open or reopen monasteries...which he did. Some Tibetans regard him highly that he made that sacrifice.

So was interested in my conversation...stepped in. she seemed knowledgeable about the tibetan condition and talked about a few books. but I stepped out. she wrote and sent us this article later.

*

Nongchuk kept smoking every now and then. They are blessed with good lungs. Mountain lungs that can climb easily. He wasn't clear...open. He was doing his chanting etc. in Saga...I noticed. It seemed fine then. When I went to talk to Dorji in the kitchen tent...he was sitting with whiskey bottle...that's fine...but it was at the cost of being alert to client needs...which never existed. He said bye etc. Prash and mm went to greet bye. I saw from a distance...at that border. Seeing that I'll never see him again. I often think of this nowadays...most people I see, I'll never see again. Was telling ahan too the other day on way to school...why daddy, he said.

*
more random live notes...

When will I ? Silence. Wtf. People. heart. Gunshots. Kiang. What will they think? Conscious. Can you? Sausages. Swami. Climb. Whiskey. Nongchuk. Buddha. Angst. So much. Odd. Eyes open. Authentic. PS. Talking. Quiet. Rakshas Tal. Friend. Human. Neanderthal. Me. 

[Tibet]: Day 5-6-7 Manasarovar

Manasarovar is at 4,590m...high. It was spectacular every which way we saw it. It was a very long drive. 10+ hours. Nothing of course compared to what we'd have on the return. There was a delayed start from Saga...bfast poha upma thing...long discussion in the bus...re mm, then the dazed thing, patterns...i irritated (rather bored must be)...odd entry it was into Manasarovar...but a spectacular one.

It was late evening (possibly night) when we arrived at the visitor's center. A huge structure again. There was a basketball court outside. Some solar panels (these were everywhere). The visitor's center somewhat indicated a tourist spot...it shows what'll become of the place. It'll be a tourist destination. Large pics of birds inside the center. One vast map of the region...showing Darchen...Mt. Kailash (I liked the map)...we took pics in front of Manasarovar.

Then we waited for an ecofriendly bus - which wasn't all that eco friendly - meaning they filled the same gas etc. Anyways we shifted into it...and went along the perimeter of the Lake. It got darker...was difficult to drive. It looked like the Pacific ocean in some respects. Reminded me of that beautiful day with prad...we unexpectedly went there. There were ducks and such...swimming...just like that day...something peaceful unto itself...high up above the world. In some ways it was surreal to think that we were so high up...and yet it feels so normal or something.

The ride went on and on. Riche took pics of a Tibetan family...people make the place, she said. The sun never set. Almost. We got lost a bit too - crossed Trugo Gompa where we were to stay...then turned back. Some of us got to moving the bags...Dorji again was only too happy to allow...I'm thinking about it now. mm would be the first always to get moving. even there. he did it even at the road crossing place...almost seamlessly now that I think about it.

We stayed in Trugo Gompa (monastery)...in dorm-style accommodations. 5 to a room...two of the rooms were attached. Next day (late afternoon when we returned after acclimatization trek), a small bird was stuck inside the room...it was bright and sunny outside. then we opened the window...it went out...small bird.

It was nice...the dorm-style...tamr and I were head-to-head...dd and prash toe-to-toe next room ("he kicked, then instinctively I kicked")...thakurji other side spreading all his stuff...mayr near the window in his maroon cheddis...tilk across me...mm next room...g next room...kumr too. then all the women other room...

With fatigue...everyone simply slept. There was talk about Brahma muhurtam at 3am etc. to go to the lake...some went that night too...kumr, mayr, tilk went to smoke weed or something...they came back stoned...talking about such a big shooting star...and in the clouds they say shivji or something. stoned. :)