I got up the next morning early. I had retired early despite the wedding bhttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifecause the weather got to me and my nose, ears blocked and with a hurting throat....so I left a little earlier than I thought I would. So the next morning I took Hao's other reco and went to the temple of heaven, which was more interesting than Forbidden City.
What I loved about it - more than the structures, which all seemed to intermingle in my mind by now -- was the people. There were so many local people doing so many different things. It was Sunday morning and people were out in the sun -- singing, dancing (salsa and traditional), exercising, playing jianzi, a sport where you play shuttle-cock with your foot - nice fun! People seemed very extroverted, open and forthcoming. People volunteered to sing and it was all so interesting. I lost track of time before rushing to make it back to the Quandrangle hotel for lunch at noon.
At lunch, I tried frog legs, scallops and squid all for the first time - all for fun. Frog legs I thought tasted like Checkers' fries.
**
Silk market was chaos. You can hone your negotiation and bargaining skills well by spending time there. You can find the most unbelievable deals usually at the 1/10th the price they originally quote. It's erstwhile Fashion Street in Mumbai -- only that many times bigger. The vendors spoke better English than most vendors in the rest of Beijing.
That night we ate dinner at the place called "The Place" - a mall with a huge LCD roof that displayed all kinds of things -- from flowers, to kids, to outerspace stuff...it's a great place to get buzzed and lose track of time and your mind.
Monday, May 18, 2009
Day 4: Lama temple and the wedding
Hao, the Michigan alum recommended that I visit the Lama Temple. After the Great Wall trek to Simatai, I was greatly satisfied. I had done whatever I wanted to in Beijing. I mean here was the greatest wall and longest and highest wall in the world...so narrow that I could drop off on either side into the valleys...so beautiful that I could've just stopped and stayed there...I didn't feel the need to see anything more.
But I went to the Yonghe temple or the Lama temple. I took a cab and had a nice "Lost in Translation" moment. I was very impressed with the temple. It's bang in the middle of busy city roads and yet so peaceful and quiet inside. There were two bronze lions, several versions of Buddha....very much like Buddha's Indian counterparts....the mudras, the postures...very similar. Devotees purchased incense sticks outside the temple and burned them in front. People were not required to remove shoes to go inside.
What took the cake was the Maitreya Buddha - an 18m tall statue that was carved out of a single piece of sandalwood. The statue takes its place in the Guiness Book of records for being the tallest statue made out of a single piece of wood. While Buddha is mostly depicted for His equanimity, his meditative postures and his laughter...this Buddha seemed super human or rather a super God...someone who ought to be feared. You can't help but gape at the statue in awe at its magnificence. I was thinking of Michelangelo's sculptures and this one...who is to say which is greater. I loved it.
**
The wedding was lovely. The bride and groom looked so lovely in their traditional and modern attires. We went in rickshaw to the lake. The groomsmen and the couple went on a boat to the wedding place. They took the lake that was near Bar street (where I ate bean curd stir fry the other night). Max and I continued in the rickshaw to the wedding place.
The wedding area glowed in red - bright, beautiful red. From the boat, George came on a horse and his bride in a red palanquin. He rode around the area with trumpeters making their sounds. The local tourists in the area went crazy. When he got back to the wedding site, the marriage party was the stop him and ask him for money. He had a bag of coins from the Mardigras and he threw it all around him -- tourists went crazier. It was fun.
Then BeiBei got out of her palanquin - veil and all. The groom removed the veil with the veil-stick. And then there was this MC who directed them in Chinese what to do, what to say. He teased them, made them bow to each others' parents, to each other. Then they had tea. Then they ate dumplings, which are supposed to taste "raw" -- so the crowd would ask, "Is it raw?" and they would respond, "Yes, raw" -- which also has a double meaning that they would deliver babies. Then they jumped on the fire (fake one) and George had to fire arrows to the earth, to the sky and at his bride.
Very nice!
But I went to the Yonghe temple or the Lama temple. I took a cab and had a nice "Lost in Translation" moment. I was very impressed with the temple. It's bang in the middle of busy city roads and yet so peaceful and quiet inside. There were two bronze lions, several versions of Buddha....very much like Buddha's Indian counterparts....the mudras, the postures...very similar. Devotees purchased incense sticks outside the temple and burned them in front. People were not required to remove shoes to go inside.
What took the cake was the Maitreya Buddha - an 18m tall statue that was carved out of a single piece of sandalwood. The statue takes its place in the Guiness Book of records for being the tallest statue made out of a single piece of wood. While Buddha is mostly depicted for His equanimity, his meditative postures and his laughter...this Buddha seemed super human or rather a super God...someone who ought to be feared. You can't help but gape at the statue in awe at its magnificence. I was thinking of Michelangelo's sculptures and this one...who is to say which is greater. I loved it.
**
The wedding was lovely. The bride and groom looked so lovely in their traditional and modern attires. We went in rickshaw to the lake. The groomsmen and the couple went on a boat to the wedding place. They took the lake that was near Bar street (where I ate bean curd stir fry the other night). Max and I continued in the rickshaw to the wedding place.
The wedding area glowed in red - bright, beautiful red. From the boat, George came on a horse and his bride in a red palanquin. He rode around the area with trumpeters making their sounds. The local tourists in the area went crazy. When he got back to the wedding site, the marriage party was the stop him and ask him for money. He had a bag of coins from the Mardigras and he threw it all around him -- tourists went crazier. It was fun.
Then BeiBei got out of her palanquin - veil and all. The groom removed the veil with the veil-stick. And then there was this MC who directed them in Chinese what to do, what to say. He teased them, made them bow to each others' parents, to each other. Then they had tea. Then they ate dumplings, which are supposed to taste "raw" -- so the crowd would ask, "Is it raw?" and they would respond, "Yes, raw" -- which also has a double meaning that they would deliver babies. Then they jumped on the fire (fake one) and George had to fire arrows to the earth, to the sky and at his bride.
Very nice!
Day 3: Bodhi and Rehearsal dinner
I slept through the day. I can't remember what I did that afternoon but I seemed to have done something! Oh yes, we went to George's office for lunch. Nice office with lot of space. And yes, after lunch all the men went to Bodhi for a massage. The masseuse and I conversed in basic English while she busily worked on my foot. I was so sleepy by the end of it.
That evening was the wedding rehearsal dinner. We went to a French restaurant at one of the oldest buildings in Beijing. The restaurant and the historical building was frequented by several celebrities and there were photographs all around.
The food was nice. I met an interesting Michigan alum who started up an Internet-based travel company's operations in China.
Prior to the dinner, I watched the couple practice their wedding moves and that was a lot of fun!
That evening was the wedding rehearsal dinner. We went to a French restaurant at one of the oldest buildings in Beijing. The restaurant and the historical building was frequented by several celebrities and there were photographs all around.
The food was nice. I met an interesting Michigan alum who started up an Internet-based travel company's operations in China.
Prior to the dinner, I watched the couple practice their wedding moves and that was a lot of fun!
Day 3: Tiananmen Square
I didn't sleep from the bachelor party night. I decided to walk to Tiananmen square. It was a 40 min walk from Deshengmen Inner street (where the hotel is). As I walked close to the government buildings, I observed guards standing still like statues. It was nippy and I was amazed how they did that. I stood and observed for long. Their eyes would flutter and move around but not their bodies. They looked thin and young but they definitely demonstrated inner strength and resolve that made you want to respect them.
At the square, the security check was no big deal. In fact, the guard missed checking me at all. This I noticed everywhere in Beijing. They haven't had the troubles of Mumbai and it shows. It was a pleasure to walk into public places without being frisked.
The square was beautiful. It was clean. There were several local tourists who were taking pictures of themselves in front of the monument, in front of the Mao image on the other end of the road at Forbidden City. People were flying kites that were in the shape of birds. I saw one man in a suit pay his respects to the monument - he bowed thrice. The soldier on the other end looked on. I missed the flag hoisting that happens every morning at sunrise. I saw a group of soldiers taking their morning run.
It was cold, I was tired and sleepy and I left.
At the square, the security check was no big deal. In fact, the guard missed checking me at all. This I noticed everywhere in Beijing. They haven't had the troubles of Mumbai and it shows. It was a pleasure to walk into public places without being frisked.
The square was beautiful. It was clean. There were several local tourists who were taking pictures of themselves in front of the monument, in front of the Mao image on the other end of the road at Forbidden City. People were flying kites that were in the shape of birds. I saw one man in a suit pay his respects to the monument - he bowed thrice. The soldier on the other end looked on. I missed the flag hoisting that happens every morning at sunrise. I saw a group of soldiers taking their morning run.
It was cold, I was tired and sleepy and I left.
Day 2: Bachelor party at Chocolate
**I'm actually back in India now but wanted to finish writing up before everything escapes my mind**
I didn't think Day 2 would extend sooo long. So I got back to the hotel and slept. George called me I think at 10.40pm and I didn't know what was happening, where I was etc. when the phone rang. I remember someone from the hotel staff came to my room to connect the call but I can't remember.
After 15min, I headed out to Chocolate - an out and out expat hangout in Beijing. It was a Thursday night and I couldn't believe the crowd nor the number of entertainers - quite a lot. There was some belly dancing, table dancing, lots of vodka, cross dressers, rock band, opera-ish singers, standup comedians -- amazingly a lot of things for a weekday night. Most of the women seemed to have come from Russia. I met several expats - someone who worked in private equity space, an architect from Boston, an Australian/ South African entrepreneur who started a scientific papers translation service, someone who worked at the embassy and an artist from California (G's best man). It was a fun night that stretched to the very next morning.
While we waited for G to exit what he had taken in (somewhere near 2nd ring road), I noticed an African-English guy from Welsh who happened to join our group (we had a big van). Something suddenly flashed for him and he went, "What am I doing here, what am I doing here? I don't know any of you..." It was funny.
I basically realized that Beijing offered a lot of expats (several of them have been living for over 5 years) freedom at an unbelievably low cost. Such an environment is important for any major city to attract expats. As one of them said, he could hang out every night and that would be okay. At some points, you can't really tell where you are. Like Chocolate could be in Southeast Michigan...only the waiters were Chinese.
We got back to the hotel at 5am...I was hungry and I couldn't sleep. My day continued.
I didn't think Day 2 would extend sooo long. So I got back to the hotel and slept. George called me I think at 10.40pm and I didn't know what was happening, where I was etc. when the phone rang. I remember someone from the hotel staff came to my room to connect the call but I can't remember.
After 15min, I headed out to Chocolate - an out and out expat hangout in Beijing. It was a Thursday night and I couldn't believe the crowd nor the number of entertainers - quite a lot. There was some belly dancing, table dancing, lots of vodka, cross dressers, rock band, opera-ish singers, standup comedians -- amazingly a lot of things for a weekday night. Most of the women seemed to have come from Russia. I met several expats - someone who worked in private equity space, an architect from Boston, an Australian/ South African entrepreneur who started a scientific papers translation service, someone who worked at the embassy and an artist from California (G's best man). It was a fun night that stretched to the very next morning.
While we waited for G to exit what he had taken in (somewhere near 2nd ring road), I noticed an African-English guy from Welsh who happened to join our group (we had a big van). Something suddenly flashed for him and he went, "What am I doing here, what am I doing here? I don't know any of you..." It was funny.
I basically realized that Beijing offered a lot of expats (several of them have been living for over 5 years) freedom at an unbelievably low cost. Such an environment is important for any major city to attract expats. As one of them said, he could hang out every night and that would be okay. At some points, you can't really tell where you are. Like Chocolate could be in Southeast Michigan...only the waiters were Chinese.
We got back to the hotel at 5am...I was hungry and I couldn't sleep. My day continued.
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Day 2: The Great Wall - Jinshaling to Simatai hike
Am returning from the hike - back in the van. Very happy. Super satisfied.
I liked the Jinghsaling part more than I did the Simatai part. Jinshaling seemed more rugged and true to Earth. Simatai more sophisticated. 8km? I didn't know it. Badaling is the more popular tourist spot which I avoided like plague.
My knee gave trouble last night - I think I walked some 20km and that must've done it. I had the pain even this morning. I've been badly stuck in hikes (recall one excruciating pain in Seattle) bcos of this left knee. So I deliberated and finally decided to a direct to simatai. But when we reached Jinshaling I abruptly changed my mind - just like that. I'm glad I did that. It tells me again and again that I gotto let go and trust my instinct than my rational 2x2 brain. I did the hike quite seamlessly.
There are about 30 gates or so with the 14th one being the highest point. There I bought tea from Mongolean tea seller to celebrate. I paid her 20RMB - the costliest ever but I did so deliberately. You spot several of these tea, coke, beer, cigarettes and tshirt sellers. They first look at me and say - "you want cold water?" Then "you want to buy tshirt" and then " hey where ur from?" - they smile so fully - it's nice.
You can't help but wonder why the Chinese emperors took the elaborate pains to build this wall. Would they have imagined that it'll be like a hot tourist spot a few hundred years later? The gates and the walls are all in ruins. You can drop and fall quite easily anytime. But there is peace here - enormous amount of peace. Mountains all around - lush green valleys - it demands you to drop your thoughts and experience nothingness. It was nice to touch everything - the bricks of the wall, the ground, the steps - you feel connected to an infinite past and everything feels one.
Forget me - I can sense a renewed energy among the other backpackers in the van. I met a farmer from New Zealand who has never travelled all his life and decided to do so now. We were talking business from NextServices to his (dairy and meat) and connected instantly.
I liked our driver too - a thin guy dressed in tight fitting pants and shirt. His pants has a small dragon on the side. He's quite most of the time and speaks when necessary. Very chill.
I liked the Jinghsaling part more than I did the Simatai part. Jinshaling seemed more rugged and true to Earth. Simatai more sophisticated. 8km? I didn't know it. Badaling is the more popular tourist spot which I avoided like plague.
My knee gave trouble last night - I think I walked some 20km and that must've done it. I had the pain even this morning. I've been badly stuck in hikes (recall one excruciating pain in Seattle) bcos of this left knee. So I deliberated and finally decided to a direct to simatai. But when we reached Jinshaling I abruptly changed my mind - just like that. I'm glad I did that. It tells me again and again that I gotto let go and trust my instinct than my rational 2x2 brain. I did the hike quite seamlessly.
There are about 30 gates or so with the 14th one being the highest point. There I bought tea from Mongolean tea seller to celebrate. I paid her 20RMB - the costliest ever but I did so deliberately. You spot several of these tea, coke, beer, cigarettes and tshirt sellers. They first look at me and say - "you want cold water?" Then "you want to buy tshirt" and then " hey where ur from?" - they smile so fully - it's nice.
You can't help but wonder why the Chinese emperors took the elaborate pains to build this wall. Would they have imagined that it'll be like a hot tourist spot a few hundred years later? The gates and the walls are all in ruins. You can drop and fall quite easily anytime. But there is peace here - enormous amount of peace. Mountains all around - lush green valleys - it demands you to drop your thoughts and experience nothingness. It was nice to touch everything - the bricks of the wall, the ground, the steps - you feel connected to an infinite past and everything feels one.
Forget me - I can sense a renewed energy among the other backpackers in the van. I met a farmer from New Zealand who has never travelled all his life and decided to do so now. We were talking business from NextServices to his (dairy and meat) and connected instantly.
I liked our driver too - a thin guy dressed in tight fitting pants and shirt. His pants has a small dragon on the side. He's quite most of the time and speaks when necessary. Very chill.
Day 2: on the way to Jinshaling great wall
Am riding to Simatai in a van full of backpacker tourists from Australia, NZ and elsewhere. One of them has taken 3 mths off to trek in Beijing, Morocco, Italy and France. Morocco sounds interesting.
The highways are well developed - much like the good parts of NH8 to Delhi or interior parts of US. While I see fields, plantations on either side, it's all developed. We are just 1.5 hrs outside Beijing. The real trips must lie in the west coast.
The vegetation looks like India. If I were to not look at signs or people I wouldn't know. We are going up a mountain right now - a mini one. I don't see dead animals on the highway. It also worries me that am sitting next to the driver and this seat has no belt. And our friend here likes to overtake from the wrong side of the highway.
Poor people look a tad better off than the poor in India. Everyone, everywhere smokes. People cycle a lot and mopeds are very common.
The highways are well developed - much like the good parts of NH8 to Delhi or interior parts of US. While I see fields, plantations on either side, it's all developed. We are just 1.5 hrs outside Beijing. The real trips must lie in the west coast.
The vegetation looks like India. If I were to not look at signs or people I wouldn't know. We are going up a mountain right now - a mini one. I don't see dead animals on the highway. It also worries me that am sitting next to the driver and this seat has no belt. And our friend here likes to overtake from the wrong side of the highway.
Poor people look a tad better off than the poor in India. Everyone, everywhere smokes. People cycle a lot and mopeds are very common.
Beijing day 1 - forbidden city, NanLuoGoXian
Am riding in the van with Sunflower (our tour guide) who keeps scratching her ankle and George's family. Sunflower's talking nonstop, smiling all the time and explaining different quirks of Beijing.
We went to the Olympics stadium - it was fun. I enjoyed taking pics. Chinese tourists from all over seem to visit it. If you look for long you can tell the difference amongst the faces.
*
We had lunch at Aria, an Italian restaurant in World Trade ctr hotel. Then I got off near Forbidden city and had an amazing time walking around Beijing.
Forbidden city is in distinct layers - with each palace playing its part. Kings changed clothes, received visitors, thought and did diff stuff in diff palaces. I particularly liked the Middle Harmony Palace. The theme itself was to bring a sense of balance in one's ruling of the kingdom.
After Forbidden City I walked for several km to NanLuoGuXian st which has a lot of bars and eateries. Classic backpacker lane. I loved it. I got tshirts at Plastered 8 store, ate asparagus sandwich at Alba restaurant and bought tickets for the great wall hike. I managed quite easily w English, the translation book and broken Chinese. You really can get by in Beijing w English. I'm thinking that it'll never be like it is in say Mumbai but it's likely to be like Paris.
Later at night aftr I finished wrk stuff, I walked w the hotel waiter (fantastic guy) to buy something to eat for the hike. I spent a little time with george, jenny and his friend john and later retired to my room w beer, tv, internet and a head full of thought about the difficult hike w my knee.
We went to the Olympics stadium - it was fun. I enjoyed taking pics. Chinese tourists from all over seem to visit it. If you look for long you can tell the difference amongst the faces.
*
We had lunch at Aria, an Italian restaurant in World Trade ctr hotel. Then I got off near Forbidden city and had an amazing time walking around Beijing.
Forbidden city is in distinct layers - with each palace playing its part. Kings changed clothes, received visitors, thought and did diff stuff in diff palaces. I particularly liked the Middle Harmony Palace. The theme itself was to bring a sense of balance in one's ruling of the kingdom.
After Forbidden City I walked for several km to NanLuoGuXian st which has a lot of bars and eateries. Classic backpacker lane. I loved it. I got tshirts at Plastered 8 store, ate asparagus sandwich at Alba restaurant and bought tickets for the great wall hike. I managed quite easily w English, the translation book and broken Chinese. You really can get by in Beijing w English. I'm thinking that it'll never be like it is in say Mumbai but it's likely to be like Paris.
Later at night aftr I finished wrk stuff, I walked w the hotel waiter (fantastic guy) to buy something to eat for the hike. I spent a little time with george, jenny and his friend john and later retired to my room w beer, tv, internet and a head full of thought about the difficult hike w my knee.
korea Ichleon - first impressions
Just arrived in Seoul. The entrance announced: Koreeya meom aapka swaagat ho! I was of course mighty pleased. The air hostesses had a nice sing song way of speaking in Korean - sounded really easy on the ears.
Am looking at the landscape outside - dry, little flat with mountains in the distance - could be anywhere - sfo, LA, Bangalore, you wouldn't know.
The security ladies are spiffily dressed. I'm mighty amused. She kept stroking the butt of the guy before me with her detector bcos it kept beeping.
*
There are these Korean cultural spots sponsored by the Korean tourism dept. They invite you experience their culture. I went and made a small wooden desk, painted it black and even stuck two shining things on it. A lady came up on stage and played an instrument called hidem - soulful, Buddha bar kind music. The whole experience made me warm up to Korean culture- made me curious. You know all the while that the act has been repeated n times over and they've aced it - yet you warm up. It was so subtle, understated in making me commit my time and making me remember them. Makes me wanna do business here. Kudos Korea.
*
I thoroughly enjoyed my time at Seoul airport. I ate bibimbop with kimchi in a hot stone bowl - it was so yum! Checked my email at the internet lounge - there were a variety of laptops that I've never seen. By chance I went to a paul smith store - deliberated on a jacket and finally got it. Korea airport did get my money in return for the beautiful, small touches and gestures.
Am looking at the landscape outside - dry, little flat with mountains in the distance - could be anywhere - sfo, LA, Bangalore, you wouldn't know.
The security ladies are spiffily dressed. I'm mighty amused. She kept stroking the butt of the guy before me with her detector bcos it kept beeping.
*
There are these Korean cultural spots sponsored by the Korean tourism dept. They invite you experience their culture. I went and made a small wooden desk, painted it black and even stuck two shining things on it. A lady came up on stage and played an instrument called hidem - soulful, Buddha bar kind music. The whole experience made me warm up to Korean culture- made me curious. You know all the while that the act has been repeated n times over and they've aced it - yet you warm up. It was so subtle, understated in making me commit my time and making me remember them. Makes me wanna do business here. Kudos Korea.
*
I thoroughly enjoyed my time at Seoul airport. I ate bibimbop with kimchi in a hot stone bowl - it was so yum! Checked my email at the internet lounge - there were a variety of laptops that I've never seen. By chance I went to a paul smith store - deliberated on a jacket and finally got it. Korea airport did get my money in return for the beautiful, small touches and gestures.
Monday, May 11, 2009
Words before flight
This time literally - a flight not my motorcycle. Am sitting at terminal 6 waiting for the flight to Seoul. Cute little Korean kids are running around.
My original plan was to stay in Dongcheng district, dump my stuff and head off to Shangdong. Now George offered me to stay w them - I said ok - some place in old beijing that's built the old style - cool. I still plan to give a day and go to Taishan. Take a direct train with peasants on what they call a 'hard seat' and climb Taoism's most imp mountain - Mt. Tai. It has a few thousand steps. George hadn't told me about the wedding rehearsal on Friday night - so I gotto be back in beijing by then. I spent last night getting my stuff in order. Fun!
So what do I feel before flight - well the unknowns are dramatically reduced because George is picking me up and we go to where everyone is. Let's see what happens. Me needs some juice.
My original plan was to stay in Dongcheng district, dump my stuff and head off to Shangdong. Now George offered me to stay w them - I said ok - some place in old beijing that's built the old style - cool. I still plan to give a day and go to Taishan. Take a direct train with peasants on what they call a 'hard seat' and climb Taoism's most imp mountain - Mt. Tai. It has a few thousand steps. George hadn't told me about the wedding rehearsal on Friday night - so I gotto be back in beijing by then. I spent last night getting my stuff in order. Fun!
So what do I feel before flight - well the unknowns are dramatically reduced because George is picking me up and we go to where everyone is. Let's see what happens. Me needs some juice.
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