Monday, August 13, 2007

End of Phase 1 (Mumbai-Delhi)


I've got a million mails...finished up with the client ones...and want to release my thoughts so I can focus back on work (and release is the right word). Also, these thoughts just keep changing - what I felt as soon as I crapped (literally) in the open outside of Udaipur I don't feel now! And for good reason...Thank Gawd, Suz would say! I'll just write whatever gets transmited to my fingers from my head - sometimes it might seem like I'm writing for myself, sometimes to inform an imminent rider and sometimes to provide vicarious pleasure to those watchers out there - but if I have to choose as I write, it'll be mostly for myself so excuse me. Anyways, here is the route map - the blue is the path we took, the yellow dots are where we stopped for an extended period of time (2 clarifications - we stopped at Manor just 50km from Mumbai so it doesn't count, Surat was a forceful stop because of an insane traffic jam so it counts!).

So what do I feel right now - back in Mumbai. I kinda feel expanded - in every sense of the word - mind, heart and spirit. Independent India is at the cusp of the ripe young age of 60 years (tomorrow) - ripe because you can kinda sense that the efforts of development are about to bear fruit - I feel happy having experienced it. A motorcycle journey is different from car, bus, train, walk and definitely airplane journeys. You don't just experience one or two senses like sights and sounds or sights and smell - particularly in a car you are locked up from the world outside but in a motorcycle you experience all of the 5 senses while driving - you see, you hear, you smell and you feel - your skin feels the experience and sometimes you taste things too because your mouth is exposed to whatever!

I've made broad observations in terms of business, people and their aspirations and fears, the intermingling of old and new India, of a present glued to a past, of a present gearted to a future, of our land, our farmers, of different states, cities and the surprising consistency and inconsisency in people's behavior, food, sounds - in a rational calculated way these may or may not be correct but again the mind has far more computational power when it relies on intuition than when it does with rational thinking so the subtle signals might as well be right.

Sunday, August 12, 2007

Sitting behind the Taj

We're right now behind the South gate of the Taj Mahal in Agra...after negotiating with Bhaskar that we'll eat Biryani at Pakeeza restaurant near the fort, I was able to get to this Internet cafe. The Taj is absolutely absolutely amazing - our guide Parvez did a pretty passionate job explaining the background. The whole city seems to be based on tourism...

It's been an amazing journey so far - arduous, exciting, happy, enlightening, painful everything...and it's just been 3 days of driving. Will write later more peacefully - want to finish up email.

Thursday, August 9, 2007

Words before flight...

Am at the office and in transit - Bhaskar is impatiently waiting my room...had a real hectic day picking up Bhaskar at 5.55am, giving a quick Bullet 101, buying saddle bags, jacket, adding a nitrogen-based mixture into tires blah blah...

What am I thinking now? I had multiple thoughts throughout the day but right now, I'm just feeling a little rushed but reminding myself to take it slow. Came to cut a check and check my emails...I just feel happy I guess...that's about it.

Wednesday, August 8, 2007

Can't wait...

I don't know who gave the moronic idea of 'planning' the trip...I just want to go now (there's no rain either) and just can't imagine that I'll have to come back after Delhi, wait for 2 weeks and then go again...sounds terrible! But I have a lot of work-work to do.

Bhaskar sent an sms y'day...the sights and smells of India and the bull...can't get better than this. Poetic eh? Should ask once the butt starts hurting.

Out of desperation to do something today, I went and bought some first aid stuff like pain killers, neosporin, bandaid, Move etc. Bhaskar lands at 6am tomorrow...and some action would begin like buying saddle bags and jackets and stuff. But I'm like I don't need all this stuff - I just want to drive now.

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

The Big W

It's raining like crazy in Mumbai since the weekend and I can't help but wonder how the weather will be during the trip. The National Informatics Centre (Weather Resource System for India) runs a website to provide the 5-day forecast: http://www.weather.nic.in/. Surprisingly, it links to Yahoo's weather forecast.

Anyways, it looks like it'll rain in Mumbai but not as much in Ahmedabad, Jaipur and Delhi (the Phase 1 path). We'll just have to get used to driving in the rain. I just got sidetracked - the enfield website featured my Bull - heh, heh - http://royalenfield.com/app/IN/trip.asp or http://royalenfield.com/app/IN/trip.asp?sID=17563.

But a lot will depend on the weather - now during Phase 1 and more importantly - later - during Phase 2.

Sunday, August 5, 2007

How to prepare the Bullet and yourself for long drives (e.g. Leh)

This functional article will be of particular interest to those who are preparing the Bullet for a long drive.

These are following spares to consider (for a full list, check your Enfield manual):
- Bulbs - headlight (Rs. 40), tail lamp, fuse
- Cables - accelerator, clutch (Rs. 125), front brake and decompressor
- Rear chain link lock
- Tyre puncture repair kit - cold vulcanizing type, a tube that can temporarily seal punctures (about Rs.500)
- Foot operated air pump (costs Rs. 450)
- Insulation tape (Rs. 10)
- Spark plug (Rs. 72), fuel hose (free!)

On Saturday, I went to the Enfield service center in Mahim and spent close to 3 hours with the lead mechanic Pervez and others. He started by explaining to me the basic principles. He told me in Hindi: look, just like your body needs oxygen and your stomach burns the food and gives you energy - the Bullet also requires air, petrol - these burn to give it power. The carburettor gets air supply from the filter box, fuel from the tank, spark from the spark plug and sends this to the engine box - everything catches fire there and gives the motorcycle its energy. Simple. Brilliant. Looking at all my notes and diagrams of the engine box, carburettor etc. amused him and he kept subtly smiling to himself. Before I left he told me, Inshallah, aapka safar safal hoga (God willing, your journey will be successful).

There's another enthusiastic gentleman called Gisad at the Enfield service station who's been on 21 long trips and a few times on the Leh, Khardung La stretch (he deliberately painted the national flag on his Bullet during the Kargil war because it wasn't allowed in Kashmir) - talk to him for some really good perspective and advice on the Leh trip. The best thing about the Bullet community - be it mechanics, managers, suppliers, dealers, other customers, anyone -- everyone is maha enthusiastic about the machine and is very interested in seeing you succeed in your endeavors and they come forward for the sheer pleasure of it to help you in more ways than one. It's truly a cult experience.

Below are my notes on the various parts (for Electra 5S) and some additional info. The most important ones here are: 1) clutch cable 2) carburettor tuning 3) rear chain link lock 4) Punctures.

Clutch cable. Of all the cables, the clutch cable is the most vulnerable on the Bullet. Here's what you need to do:
- Remove the kick lever
- Remove the 5-speed cap and bolt below
- The cable needs to be inserted from the bottom of the vehicle and pushed to the top - in case of problems doing so, you can always let it hang from the outside
- Unscrew the nut on the left side
- Use your fingers to feel the cable inside (behind the 5-speed cap) - the cable needs to sit in a lock
- 3mm LN key, 12 mm and 5 mm spanners are required (not available in the tool box).

An easier way would be to open the gear box but you'll need a plate to hold the gear oil that'll leak when you do this (it's a 90 # gear oil).

Accelerator cable. It's rare that this has to be replaced. But it's the cable that goes on top of the carburettor. Loosen the top of the carburettor. You'll notice a spring, clip to lock it, make sure that the cable aligns and when you replace the whole thing, it has to align as well -- to lock it.

Decompressor cable. The cable goes from the decompressor, from under the tank in between the engine chamber. This is a rare issue with Bullets and will not stop you from driving anyways.

Carburettor Tuning. On higher altitudes, it's possible that the Bullet will not get the required air as would you - it's rarefied. So the filter needs the capacity to suck in more. To do so, you'll need to tune and open the carburettor more. On the left side of the carburretor, there's a small screw like thing - that's the tuning device. To tune, rotate clockwise all the way through until it locks. After that rotate 360 degrees to complete one full circle, then rotate 180 degrees to do another half-circle -- 1.5 circles is normal tuning. For higher altitudes, you need to open it more - so make it 2 or so (turn more to left/ anti-clockwise). This is only when you are up a slope and the Bullet is not starting or not getting enough air to start.

Rear chain link lock. Knowing to change this is important - due to wear and tear this can break. It's a small piece of metal that locks the chain together. It's fairly intuitive but one needs to remember that the open end needs to point down.

Punctures. There's a gas station called the Chaganmitha petrol pump at Sion Bus Depot (Mumbai); they put a nitrogen-based mixture into your tires - this tends to cool the tires more and reduces the risk of punctures while on long drives. However, I'm also buying a temporary puncture fixing kit (it's a small pump) and a foot operated pump (recommended) -- this'll help until the time one can take the motorcycle to a proper mechanic. Once you open the hole, there's a valve (technically called Shredder Valve, commonly called Valve Die) and there's a spring. Then you'll see the hollow space, inject the solution into this hollow space and replace everything as it was before.

Tire pressure. While doing a long drive with a pillion, the front tire needs to be at 22 units and rear at 32 units. This is particularly critical while driving up the mountains because it helps in balancing the motorcycle with the heavy load at the back.

Other considerations.
- By rule, put 140ml of 2T oil for 14 litres and 100ml of 2T oil for 10 litres. Particularly important for long drives.
- Do not drive Bullets with the old engines at constant speed (e.g. don't keep driving at 70) - keep changing the speed because it is believed to seize sometimes. This issue isn't there with the AVL engines (Thunderbird, Machismo).
- There's something called 'missing' that happens on the Bullets on long drives - this is the putt, putt, putt sound -- to avoid that one needs to seal the area between the tank and carburettor (am getting it done on Thursday).
- In Manali, there's a good Enfield mechanic called Raju Mechanic (that's it!) - he won't service anyone's Bullet until it comes with a reference (so refer Ram Motors Mumbai - below).

Locations to buy Bullet stuff in Mumbai.
- The most popular place for Bullet accessories seems to be Ali Bhai Tirewalla near Minerva theater on Grant Road.
- Ram Motor Cycle Co. (authorized spares dealer) - Shop # 3/C, Ganesh Bhavan, Senapati Bapat Marg, Opp. Mahim Station, Mahim. (Prem Malik owns and runs the shop -- he's very enthusiastic, has been to Ladhakh and gives you loads and loads of advice - some of which is in this article). His phone number is 93230-25335. At his shop, I met a Thunderbird driver who had just completed Mumbai-Leh last month.
- Under Grant Road bridge (East side of Grant Road station) on the same side of Navjivan society and somewhere close to Ali Bhai is another useful shop where you can buy Bullet related accessories.
- Chaganmitha gas station, Sion Bus Depot, Sion, Mumbai - where you can get the nitrogen-mixture to reduce risk of punctures.

Friday, August 3, 2007

FROM THE CAR TO THE BULL

Sitting in the comfort of my car with roy orbison playing in the background the thought crossed my mind that the last time i rode a 2 wheeler was in 1996.
have always had a windshield in front on me since then.
this would be fun though, where the windshield gets replaced by the a helmet screen.
i am sure this trip would be filled with fun. Every past trip that i did added a piece to me (made me cooler as a person or stronger as a person or both).
i am really excited and looking forward to this one. This trip would definitely add a lot of pieces to us (me and praveen) humans living in this insane world.
CANT SLEEP, CANT THINK.
This is like those virgin days when one always wonders when itwill first happen.

Thursday, August 2, 2007

Mountains on my mind...

The last thing before sleeping and the first thing after getting up that I think about are the Himalayas. I watch the weather portion of the news with particular interest -- it's pouring all the way from Mumbai to Ahmedabad to Jaipur to Delhi and will continue to this weekend -- we'll be driving there next weekend. Driving to Daman anyway has given my body and mind enough practice to sustain the rain.

Also called up the Cramster's store in Mumbai - here's the address:

Smart Designs
207, Hanuman Industrial Estate
G.D. Ambekar Marg, Wadala,
Mumbai - 31
Phone:022-2412 2030 / 6663 5228

It's close to Ram Mandir near Dadar-TT circle, 10 min from Dadar station. Planning to get saddle bags, motorcycle jackets and gloves from there. I bought my ticks back from Delhi y'day for the 13th evening (JetLite) -- so rain or shine we got to get to Delhi by then.

Phase 1 (email)

From: Bhaskar Chatterjee
Date: August 2, 2007 2:41:40 PM GMT+05:30
To: Praveen Suthrum
Subject: thehimalayamdream : my phase 1 air tickets


my tickets for phase 1
hyderabad - mumbai - spicejet SG402 - reaching mumbai 11:20 pm on 9th august thursday
delhi hyderabad - spicejet SG211 - leaving delhi at 8:15pm on 13th august monday

lets plan phase II as early as possible - that way we can get cheaper tickets.

Kya hua, no call?

So Bhaskar called...saying he's waiting to book his tickets to Mumbai. Up till now he didn't have a license -- then his parents found his license from 12 years ago in Pune (adviced, "Don't drive motorcycle in Hyderabad, roads are bad" -- he has never driven a geared motorcycle and plans to learn during this trip! - his last 2-wheeled experience was on a Kinetic Honda more than a decade ago ufff...). Oh boy, this is just too crazy and exciting (I was in splits telling Norbert that I'm driving to the Himalayas -- can't believe it myself)! Anyways, here are distances:

Aug 10: Mumbai - Ahmedabad: 585km (planning 9.8 hrs)
Aug 11: Ahmedabad - Jaipur: 655km (planning 10.9 hrs)
Aug 12: Jaipur - Delhi: 267km (planning 4.5 hrs) >> Alternate, Jaipur - Agra and Agra - Delhi -- will add 229km. (depends on mood, butt and itch to see the Taj)
Aug 13: Fly back to Mumbai (me) and Hyderabad (Bhaskar)
Aug 31: Fly back to Delhi

Here's an Internet store in India like REI or EMS: www.cramster.in (they don't accept credit cards)

One big question currently is: can both of us drive from Manali-Leh on the Bull along with the tents, sleeping bags etc. If not, the plan B is to rent a Bull from Delhi.

Here's the funny thing about this whole Internet and blogging thing -- I haven't 'told' anybody about this but yet I'm telling everybody.

Another idea I had last night was to carry a NextServices/ iNexter flag or t-shirt (for sure) and put it up right there where it belongs -- on top of the world's highest motorable pass, Khardung La.