Bhutan: Recovering from back injury before a trek

The only known is the unknown.  But with this trek, the unknown seems to have revealed itself even before the trek started.  About two weeks ago, I lifted more than I should've on a bench press.  In about 15 minutes, I knew I did something wrong and stopped my workout.  In about a couple of hours, I knew I did something really wrong.  I thought it would go away.  I rested, moved gently around, sat weirdly, lay flat...took Ibuprofen...whatever.  It didn't go away.  A couple of days went by.  A myospaz tablet here and there somewhat helped but the pain was persistent.  I behaved as though nothing happened.  A full week went by and my posture had this right tilt - that I so desperately wanted to ignore.  At work, I'd put all my weight on the sides of the chair so that I don't wince too obviously when I got up.  Plus I had this cough that caused acute pain by pushing my rib cage down with the spine.  It all got a bit much and I figured ignoring wasn't fixing this.  Finally, I called a physiotherapist (Dr. Prakkash Sharoff in Khar and he's a blessing).

He made me bend forward, backward, sideways.  My back would scream in pain when he would say, bend forward and now lift your head.  There wasn't too much discussion about the plan of action and I was caught surprised when I found needles pierced in my butt.  Ouch.  Was this acupuncture?  I asked.  Dry needle therapy - I was told.  When I finally got up, my tilt reduced to my surprise.  But the pain didn't go away.  It took another three rounds of needling, 6 short physio exercises repeated 3 times a day over 7 days before my pain gave glimpses of receding.  

The needle is fine and goes in without bleeding.  About 7 or 8 needles are pierced in areas tracking the path of pain.  Simplistically, it releases the muscle from its knots - I think it basically shocks it by inducing pain.  The muscle unknots and lets go of the nerve that it was twisting and thereby communicating pain to the brain.  My first and second experiences were relaxing immediately.  The third didn't have an immediate effect but seemed to be the most effective.  I also got ankle weights (1 kg each) to strengthen my lower muscles.  The problem essentially has been on the left side (where I also have a genetic iliotibial band syndrome - my left knee is more bowed than my right making the left imbalanced and weaker).

This evening I felt amazingly better.  And it's almost shocking to not have pain (I feel some stress in the hip but no pain).  Body pain is greatly psychosomatic.  Yesterday, I got somewhat desperate - was this going to go or not or what?  I researched what I could on recovering from sports injuries and foods that aided strengthening the back muscle.  Then I read up Milan's trek documents fully (for the first time!).  It helped me visualize and get into the zone.  I've been through difficult treks before.  I've been through this angst before.  Just before trekking on the Jinshaling (Great Wall of China - a nice and easy trek), I had knee pain.  I decided to go anyways and it went away.  This thinking and getting into the zone seems to help in some way.  The whole thing suddenly feels real and the body some how starts gearing up.

I'm sitting on a hot-water bag as I write this.  I got maniacally methodical about this - that also seems to help.  I researched and found the following foods good for strengthening back: cherries, olive oil, soy, green tea, bright colored vegetables, walnuts, sardines, pineapple, berries, dark green veggies, turmeric, garlic, ginger, soy protein, fish/ cod liver oil capsules, vitamin D, magnesium - whole grains, beans, seeds, nuts, potatoes, avocados, bananas, kiwi, spinach, kale, broccoli, tofu, black beans, almonds (this is a good article on food for a healthy back).  These are essentially anti-inflamatory foods that help with cooling off inflamed muscles.  I'm not eating them all but I now have nuts, multi-vitamins from GNC (a cocktail of 6 smelly, oversized capsules), cod liver oil capsules, several fruits and fresh veggies in my diet and lots of water.  I'm also reducing sugar and inflammatory foods (oils, milk, cheese, bread, alcohol, white rice, pasta, noodles and so on).

Earlier in the evening I pulled out my duffel bag that has all my trekking paraphernalia (Ahaan baby cutely tried on some of these) and I went through Milan's check-list.  I have most of it.  Possibly need another pair of pants.  I'm in the zone.   I have a physio visit tomorrow morning.  Day-after, I'm back at the gym.  Bhutan - I'll see you soon.

Bhutan it is

It's middle of the night.  Literally.  I can't get Bhutan out of my head.  In less than a month, we'll start trekking.  I completed reading Married to Bhutan by Linda Leaming earlier tonight.  What a wonderful feel, perspective.  Enjoyed the book.

Though I've been more or less fit, my back gave in 1 week+ ago.  I have possibly 3.5 weeks to get back in shape.  Laya - Gasa trek - Milan says - is the second most difficult trek in Bhutan.  I'm most curious about the people who love a king who loves them and decides that the Gross National Happiness is a better measure than Gross Domestic Product.  Very interesting.

Sometimes I like to learn before I go, sometimes I discover everything.  Somehow this time I was curious to read about Bhutan.  Leaming's book provided that perspective.

Ok, let's do this.

Everest BC12: All These Scary People

All these scary people.  Suited.  Cleaned up.  Straightened hair.  Manicured hands.  Cell phones.  Smart phones.  Old phones.  Laptops.  Laptops.  Laptops.  Economic Times.  Bisleri bottles.  Longines watches.  Strapped-up breasts.  Boxes.  More boxes.  Standardized boxes.  Cups and coffee.  Polished black shoes.  Contracts.  Please keep it confidential.  Roving, unstable eyes.  Balls.  And eye balls.  Uncoupled couples.  Pouted lips.  Sprayed hair.  Botoxed cheeks.  Tight-fitting tops.  Hip-straightening jeans.  Orders.  Shipments.  Customer is asking.  Eye-glasses.  Perfumed necks.  Toilets.  Watches.  Video games on phones.  Crumpled business jackets folded gently on laps over laptops.  Hello, who is speaking - main abhi Dilli mein hoon - just boarded.  Dinners.  Vegetarian or non-vegetarian?  I'll call you up - don't worry - I'll call you up tomorrow.  Elevator music - no elevator.  Scratchy crotches.  Wriggly hands on seat belts.  Cabin crew arm all doors and cross check please.  Thank you.  Snoozy people.  Hurried demonstrations with yellow dropping masks.  Books.  Fiction books.  Leadership books. 360 degree leader.  Bombay Times.  Diet.  Exercise.  Relationships.  Sex.  Muscles.  Buy.  Buy.  Buy.  Retail therapy inflight magazine.  Hello 6E.  Flat sandals.  High-healed heals.  Headsets.  Small, white ones.  Big, black ones.  Won't switch-off electronic devices.  Blue seats.  White dots.  Thin, matching blue leather belts.  All these scary people.

Everest BC (D-16): It's not over until it's over

Lukla airport.  1,108 steps.  0.3km.

We didn't leave yesterday.  We were supposed to.  But the airport was shut down due to weather - here and there in Kathmandu.  We now got boarding passes (via Tara Air) after a lot of fight and chaos for the 10am flight.  No idea yet if it'll go, reach on time.  Fun!  I'm wearing Nir's Buddhist scarf and sitting by what's the gate.  The rest of the gang is downstairs - an extension of the gate that's labelled VIP room.  There's a small book stall and tea stall.  Actually, the Lukla airport is quite amazing.

It poured y'day shutting most things down.  There were choppers leaving - with nose down.  We had a super enjoyable lunch at a dhaba shack.  The kitchen had yak bones hanging by the stove.  They cooked fresh fish - the group started with 6 but soon the bones piled up.  :)  We were there for a really long time.  I had Chang - a local cold brew that tasted like buttermilk.

People have been waiting here for 3+ days in Lukla for their flights.  I spent the afternoon at the fake Starbucks place - did email and stuff.  They had banana nut muffins and very good black coffee.

Later at night, we unexpectedly ended up at the Irish pub that had purple tube lights.  Amit had Jack and Thatho paani :)  That Irish pub could've belonged anywhere.  There was a snooker table, tourists, a couple making out, flags from lots of countries.  Very interesting.  Would we leave the next day or not?  Who knew?  San Miguel was nice.

*
We finally left Lukla (Amit was the most disappointed) and made it to Kathmandu flight almost on time.  

Everest BC (D15): Last day. Life is happening.

Monjo - Lukla.  18,892 steps, 6.4km.

Today's the last day of the trek.  We will climb up to Lukla for about 4 hours to make it there by lunch - at least that's the plan (in reality, we made it there by 4.30PM).  I hope to do it with awareness.  It was all "back-in-the-plains" last night - TV, commercials, Bollywood, people drinking, extreme spice and of course my calls.  I can hear Dudh Kosi in the background.  Soon I won't.  Or will I?

*
We just had our grand finale party (it's night).  Funny having it in Lukla.  I had the local brew - Thungba - it's barley fermented in a kinda conical aluminum glass.  The hot water mixes with fermented barley and becomes alcoholic.  Very interesting process.  It's a slow, dull tipsiness that's almost non-existent but not.  It's fun to watch people drinking.  The most fun was the Nepali dance.  It was nice to see Milan dance and let himself free - a bit at least.  The walk/ trek itself was nice.  The party's anthem was Farida Khanum's Aaj Jaane Ki Zidd Na Karo.

It's stupid actually - this whole thing - going away, isolating, getting lost, finding self and throwing it all away again, plunging into madness and repeating it.  All over again.  And again.  Unsettled here or there.  Here and there.  Neither this is true nor that.  Very, very stupid.

*
We are waiting at the Sunrise Lodge at Lukla.  We are due to fly to Kathmandu (it's morning).  I can see clouds.  There are these yellow flowers.  Bees are lazing and hopping alternatively from one bunch to the other.  There are webs on the plant.  Check-in time at Lukla airport is determined based on when a plane takes off and lands and takes off and returns from Kathmandu.  You can hear it all.

Today's Nana's 69th birthday.  It was nice to talk.  Milan is lazing, meditatively.  Others are in a hurry to nowhere land.  It's getting busier now.  Bags, logistics, airport - that's about 5min walk from here.  Flowers are nice.  Bright yellow.  Swaying to a zephyr.  Doing their thing.  Wiggle.  Clouds keep drifting slowly, slowly.  Everyone is doing their thing.  Life is happening.

Everest BC (D-13,14): How it feels to touch a yak's skull

Dengboche - Kyang Juma.  24,284 steps, 8.2km.

It's been an interesting day.  The fact that the show is about to get over is settling in on everyone.  A winding down state if you will - much like Samadhi.  Jayanti took over the kitchen today and cooked egg curry for everyone.  Spicy but yum.

I had an amazing Kriya today.  Outside the window is Ama Dabalam.  Spectacular.  Went very deep during meditation.  I do think it's the mountains and higher altitudes.  It was the second longest trek of the trip but because we were descending, it became easier to breath.  It didn't seem that hard.  The mind keeps going down to the plains and the imminent tasks ahead.  I guess it's the same for everyone.

The rooms here are very nice.  The restaurant is full of pics of where the owners have traveled to.  She came and spoke to us - her manner, diction and accent - much like the Nepalese dal we ate a few times -- puzzled out of shape by constant interactions with Western travelers.

We have two short days ahead - about 4-6 hours each.  I had a veggie burger, cake, 2 coffees (yes) at the Lavazza place at Thyangboche.  It's funny how wer crave for the mundane - depending on what is mundane and for whom.

I keep looking at the many Sherpas - their moderate to small frames are able to carry and walk with incredible weights - doors, windows, bags, utensils, jerry cans, gas cylinders, chickens - anything.  They even chat on cell phones and have a steady foot while descending.  Simply amazing.

*
Kyang Juma - Monjo.  16,435 steps, 5.5km.

The morning started in very interesting ways.  I got up at 5am and saw the sunrise in all its amazing glory.  Did a lot of photography.  Very enjoyable.  The walk itself was terribly boring :) - too short, too long.  Getting down to the plains seems odd, funny, awkward.  Just called home and learnt about Ahaan's latest antics.  Fun.  Seems like am in Mumbai or elsewhere in the plains.  I can hear the Dudh Kosi in the background - a gentle reminder that am still somewhere in the Himalayas.

The most interesting thing today - was I guess - the skull of the yak that I touched and examined.  I touched its molars, put my hand through the nose and felt a perforated like layer.  It was all rough and smooth at the same time.  Everything was shaped to perfection without requiring standardization or symmetry.  Once you get past the grossness of it -- it's actually very beautiful.  The horns were surprisingly of the same texture as the rest of the skull.  It's dead and gone.  No body.  No skeleton.  Soon even this skull will be dust.  One day all of us will be thus.

Everest BC (D12) - Kalapathar and the day I got lost in wilderness

Gorakshep - Kalapathar - Gorakshep - Dengboche.
4,874 steps, 1.6km (KP), 26,935 steps, 9.1km total.

It's 5.41am in the morning India time.  I had an enjoyable dump in the open with a cow checking on stuff on the side.  Divya and I brushed teeth staring at Lhotse and Lhotse Shar.  The sun was yet to rise.  Clouds were rising up from behind - much like fire erupting unhurriedly from a volcano.

I ordered Apple porridge for breakfast.  Miss my Ahaan baby - 3 bears and Goldilocks.  So cutely he said, "am missing you Daddy" the other day.  Just saw db's watch - it's the 30th today.  Let me write about yesterday.

We started the hike to Kalapathar at around 5.30am local.  db geared up from 4.30am tsk tsk.  It had snowed all night and visibility was minimal.  As we kept climbing, quite magically the clouds cleared up. In the distance, Milan pointed out that the sun hitting Pheriche village.  Imagine dull clouds - top and below - and a small patch of land glowing in a yellow hue of sunlight.  I've never seen anything like it.  In a few more minutes, we could see the Everest - the peak in the distance.  A subtle glimpse first - a suggestion saying that hey, am here.  Then out in all its glory.  Pimori started showing up next.  A few more minutes passed and the sun rose fully from behind the Everest.  I think we could see South Col - the saddle between two peaks/ points in Everest.  Nuptse was visible next, then Lola pass.  Beyond Lola is Tibet.  It was as if someone slowly and gently unveiled a sacred gift.

The hike is a near 20-25 degree incline all the way through.  I stuck to Milan's advice - of going up very, very slowly and steadily without once increasing the heart rate.  It worked well for me and I was energetic throughout the day.  Everyone was already on top by the time I reached, Ali was on his way down.  There were weather detectors.  The view is 360 degree spectacular.  Himalayas all around and around and around.

Kumar keeps saying that the mountains will keep coming back in consciousness for six months and one would feel totally out of place in the city.  (aap sabkuch bhool jaoge - when you go back - he would tell me).  Everyone is slowly sinking into their respective realities of the plains - the "descend" is apparent this morning.  Kumar, Doctor, Divya are discussing her long hair and whether they might belong to a Bengali, South Indian or Sardarni.  What a fan club!  :)

*

The rest of the day - y'day - was our longest.  We trekked back to the amusing village down of Dengboche.  While reaching the Dugla pass, I got lost.  Instead of reaching the lodge, I ended up 40min or so off before realizing that I was lost.  I was thinking of CK, enki and lot of other stuff and was in some kind of a zone and suddenly I didn't know where I was.  First, I saw the mountain range on the right - it distinctly looked unfamiliar - I'd never noticed it before.  Next, the path seemed too narrow for a well-used trail.  My immediate reaction was that of panic and I started simply hiking quickly.  I realized what I was doing and paused.  Checked the time - it was 15:00 India time.  Works.  Enough day light left for me to figure things out.  I felt like taking a dump - did.  Then had some water and then said, ok let's figure this out.  Again (as in Lesotho and other times), I used a general sense of intuition.  Inside, it said I had to go left - more to the left.  Something kept pulling me to the left.  Then I looked around for clues and found cow/ yak dung.  There was some narrow path that the dung seemed to follow.  Dung also meant that there would be some civilization nearby.  I was in between a range and there was no way for anyone to see me or hear me.  After some more time, I saw buddhist prayer flags and a stone wall.  I hiked up there.  It was a weather station.  I then was naturally drawn more and more to the left and ahead.  I just followed my gut feel.  And I found Dugla village.  Not surprisingly, Thaman had gone out on a search for me.  Everyone had different reactions - from surprise to irritation to confusion.

Guess I have to go and pack now - it's another 5-6hr hike today.

Everest BC (D11) - Bliss at Base Camp

16:02 hrs, 15,218 steps, 5.1km, Lobuje - Gorak Shep - EBC - Gorak Shep.

We just completed Everest Base Camp.  It was amazing.  Just ate Wai Wai for the nth time.  Divya, Milan, doctor saab are next to me.  The guy from Holland (whose sprain doc fixed) is across.  So is Gyan - he's eating Wai Wai too.  A couple of medical students from Virginia are also across on the other side.  Am also sipping lemon tea for the nth time.

I started with a moderate back ache on my left side.  I popped an Ibuprofen 250 and carried on.  Amazingly, the pain vanished the minute I reached BC.  I was really, really happy.  Amit and I were playing the fool as we reached.  He had eye issues and a head ache.  As we reached, I disappeared on a whim.  Skid down on the side to the river.  The Sagarmatha?  Source of all there is in the plains below?  I touched a glacier - part of the Khumbu - I think I slid down one without realizing it.  After paying my respects to the Sagarmatha, I felt like taking a dump and I did.  I guess it's the highest point I ever did one (my record woah! :)).  While trying to pull myself up, I slid down ice and hurt my right hand a bit.  I put a quick band-aid and figured a way to pull up and join the group.  There were some fun photos.  Doc saab was maha excited - it was so nice to see him.  I called, texted family, friends (phone worked!).  Nana suggested that I meditate and I did for a few min.  And we had to leave.  The trek back was fast, full of energy.  It was simply amazing.  On the way, Milan, Divya and I were suddenly happy to be united.

*
I realize the same thing again and again every time am in the Himalayas.  Just a little more every time.  It does its life's work slowly and unhurriedly - yet with a rigid determination that's as hard as the mountains. It does its work methodically.  And it does it again and again.  Untiring.  Uncaring.  Unstopping.  Because it does what it does, it sustains all life (quite literally) in the plains.  The water I saw and touched today will reach the plains in the distant future and sustains life there.  No one there will know it, realize it or give thought to it.  And it doesn't matter.  The Himalayas doesn't care.  Going further back, Eurasia and India collided, created the Himalayas that change weather patterns and life around.  Everything seems so, so small - so really small in front of it all.  Yet everything matters and everything is so, so big - every life from the lady bug to the yellow flower to mine.  Whatever's outside is inside.  Whatever's inside is outside.  Bliss.

Everest BC12 (D-10): Khumbu and the man who was climbing Everest

Hike to Research Pyramid and Khumbu.  5,142 steps, 1.7km.

We are here in Lobuche - about 16K ft in altitude.  I'm not sure what day of the week it is, what date or how many days have passed since we started.  Everything's getting a little fuzzy.  Am slowly disintegrating with the past - of what's behind.  I think it's around the 27th.  I feel a little distant but close to the previous stuff - it's little weird to explain.  It gets down to the basics - eating carbs, protein, drinking lots and lots of water, being able to poop, peeing, not having a head ache, cold or cough or any other ailment.  That's it.  Nothing else possibly matters.  I keep thinking of the early explorers and how they did it.

The Khumbu is magnificent.  It was a rocky hike.  Milan and I had gone and it was fun because it wasn't slow and he let me do my thing.  The colors, the white, the moraine, the rocks, the dust, the azure/ aqua colors - I've never seen anything like it.  Milan said all this could be at least 10km away from where we stood - it didn't seem that way.  It was almost as though I could get down and touch it.  He kept referring to the cul-de-sac leading up to Everest.  I couldn't follow but I kept nodding.  We saw the basecamp in the distance (will be there tomorrow - phew!).  This image is etched on my mind.

I've taken a Dispirin and I guess it's kicking in now.  I'm kinda fuzzy - sleepy.  Yday, we met Hemant Sachdev - a quiet, soft-spoken man from Delhi.  He was wearing a HBS hat the other day and quietly sipping ginger tea.  He's climbing Everest.  He got sick after camp 2 or 3 and returned back to Kathmandu in an emergency chopper.  After loading up on Chicken Tandoori, he's now returning back to basecamp.  He flew back into Pheriche.  He told us about one of his fellow-expeditioners who had edema in his brain and had a paralytic attack - he was rushed back to safety.  Hemant's climbing along with people from the Indian army.  He said the climb costs upwards of Rs.20L.  There was a super sense of calm around him.  He was observing everything actively but yet very quiet.

Everest BC (D8-D9): What happens when AMS happens

Pheriche to Dhugla.  7,076 steps, 2.4km.  15,426ft altitude.

Dhugla to Lobuche. 1,016 steps, 0.3km. 16,269ft altitude.

I'm here at Thukla/ Dugla - 4,620mts altitude.  Had an interesting dream during the second half of the night - something about Apple, Angelina Jolie's party and a guy from a tobacco company!  Weird but interesting.  AMS it is!  Anyways, I arrived early here.  I saw a girl in orange pants, a blue shirt and orange hair - head bent over her knees.  All this set amidst the Lobuje background.  Perfecto!

Am eating Wai Wai noodle soup with vegetables (this has become my staple diet now) - my prize for not pooping on the way.  Saw this Australian guy - grey pants, blue jacket, beard - he walked with such ease. Was thinking about my own fitness levels.  Have to keep at it.  Actually, I think this guy is sitting next to me right now.  It's a big group from Australia - orange hair is also with them.  

Was talking to Gyan earlier.  He told me he came second at the Everest Marathon - 65km down.  He showed me his t-shirt.  He comes from a family of 7.  Saw a lot of yaks - some snorted at me or perhaps they generally snorted.  The landscape has become very different - flattened shrubs, more and more raw.

*

We are here at the Alpine lodge in Lobuje.  Given how we are doing, the itinerary has been extended by a day - an extra day at Lobuje to adjust to the higher altitude.  Then we have 2-3 tough continuous days.  The hike wasn't long but the altitude mothers it.  It was difficult for me towards the end when my head became heavy.  I found the Dugla pass very interesting.  It's basically a memorial for the several people who died on Everest (and keep dying).  The Sagarmatha claims many lives.  Anand was narrating the story of Scott Fisher (an Everest guide) who died on Everest and on whom the book Into Thin Air is partially based.  

AMS hit me bad yday.  Had a headache for a really long time.  Also loosies for a day.  Tight poop is central to any discussion - it's almost a miracle if it happens!  My AMS subsided after 3lts of water, 2 head massages by db, 2 bouts of sleep, 1 combiflam, Kriya.  Don't know what worked but I returned to normalcy by evening.  The moon in its crescent form was spectacular - dotted by distant constellations.  The night was difficult.  I had weird dreams (of my Michigan friends).  My nose was blocked and I was breathing through my mouth.  Throat gets dry.  Polypros itched like crazy.  I removed them in the middle of the night, threw away my socks.  If I drank water, I'd have to go all the way to the bathroom and pee.  If I didn't, my throat would dry up.  My lips would crack up.  My food pipe had a difficult-to-swallow sensation.  But I have to breath through my mouth.  The skin on my right forearm is all itchy now.  Can't get out of polypro, can't get in.  I need quite desperately - a baby wipe!  But it's too cold.  Argh!  I think I want to punch someone - anyone.  I want Wai Wai soup - my quantum of solace.  

By the way, the views are amazing - Pimori, Lobuje (where we saw a base camp and advanced base camp).