Day 1: Soraypampa - Salkantaytampa - Salkantay Pass - Wayracmachay, 15km, +/- 850m altitude.
Normally, treks take time to take you up to the high-point. You pass through various landscapes. But with Salkantay, Day 1 is the most difficult, also long. You get to go the pass - get your high - right away, like just 5-6 hours into the trek. It's almost like someone gives you a lift to basecamp.
We were picked up from our hotels at around 4.30am. We kept driving until 8am. I recall trying to use the headspace app in the vehicle. Everyone else was mostly sleeping.
Around 8am, we reached Mollepata for a break. It was kinda a village. I noticed that everyone greets, especially beyond Cusco. Buenos Dias, buenos dias...There were a few shops, dogs, one nice tree right in the center. I remember seeing one small electronic repair shop with a computer monitor completely open and naked.
A large group of men (possibly workers) - some were wearing cowboy hats - they were all standing in a large truck. Andrea awkwardly remarked (and at that time her loudness was particularly noticeable to me), "God, they are all being taken like cattle."
Around 9.30am, we reach the trailhead - Soraypampa (3,900m). It was nice and misty. Mads was grinning widely (again, I remember because Andrea remarked) - just happy to soon start trekking. Our chef made some nice breakfast. We even took a group photo.
I stretched. Still nervous how my knees (left particularly) would behave.
While we waited, the weather opened up and we had our first glimpse of Salkantay and the other peak was called Humantay. It was nice. Glaciers, white, surrounded by clouds.
I was still getting to know Dr. M in an outdoors environment. He was excited. Happy. Taking lots of pics (I noticed this in Cusco too). He hadn't rested or acclimatized properly the previous days. Always restless, active. I said as much as I could. Milan would've been frustrated :)
At Salkantaypampa (4,150m), we stopped at a small hut. I saw a small boy - may 4-5 years old, holding one plastic bag with fruits. Cute. He was staring. I went and tickled him on his belly and he opened up - smiling and engaging after. He and his father in the hut. They sold agua, inca cola, souvenirs and stuff. I was naturally attracted to one Condor keychain.
We kept going, kept going. It started raining. Alpaca even gave plastic ponchos to everyone. I didn't use mine. During lunch, I noticed the chef actually wore a Chef hat (this is too much I thought). The food was excellent. Made everyone happy and settled. Some rice pilaf and one bajji like thing, corn. This might've been around 2pm or so. One cow also visited the chef's side. :)
Around 3pm-3.30pm, we reached the pass. (I know all the times because I'm seeing the info on the photos now as I write). It's at 4,600m. I can't say it was super difficult. I kept going slowly, as usual, at my pace. Without rushing. Dr. M too was mostly fine. Little beginning to struggle. The rest were faster. They reached 10-15min before we did and waited for us at the top.
We took pics (nice group ones). I was happy. I even took one with M logo. Very nice views all along. Reminded me of several passes. Dry. Stones. Memories left by people. Sacred.
On the way down, I was deep in conversation with Mads (it also helped me keep my mind occupied). He told me all about growing up in Denmark. I think he's from Aarhus (pronounced so differently that I heard it like Ouus) - the second highest city. His mom works at a hospital - there are only 8 in all of Denmark. He said, she often complains about interoperability of medical records and how they can't share with other hospitals etc. Wah, universal problem!
He talked about how the social infrastructure is very good - free university education, free healthcare. The trend of taking a gap year after high school (around 16 years). And then again before Masters education. He's 23.
I remember seeing an ashy-colored rabbit like animal peeking out of the rocks and running away. I now figured it's a chinchilla - a rat! I also saw red colored rocks.
Sarah and Andrea were always ahead. Dr. M was behind.
Then I waited for Dr. M and we kept walking together. It was getting late now. May be 4.30pm or so. It's my trekking rule (perhaps everyone's) to reach camp before dark. Preferably by 5.30pm or before so that you are well-settled. Rather start early than reach late.
I remember telling Dr. M - we'll be late etc. And eventually we were.
We approached the village Wayracmachay around 6.15pm+. Around then. It was getting quite dark. I was able to find my way through the trails. Thankfully Jhois kept waiting ahead. After a point, it became impossible to find the trail.
The continuous rain had made everything slushy. We would've been totally lost had we not seen Jhois every 10-15min. I remembered that day in Chadar with d. I narrated several trekking stories to Dr. M to distract and engage his mind.
I think I took his bag as well. Earlier he had refused to carry two trekking sticks, now he struggled. I gave him mine. He was wearing jeans. Didn't have proper trekking shoes (socks must've been wet). I'm sure he had a very frustrating time. He understood at the end of it all anyways.
We must've reached camp a little before 7pm. Very, very late. It was pitch dark.
Guess we had seen it all for a Day 1.
In the dining tent, Jhois told us a joke. Something about his professor. A fish. That said blue, blue, blue...it was so funny! I can't remember it now. ha!
Dr. M was quite shaken. Wouldn't eat. He was wearing t-shirt and shorts. I repeated a few times so that he would get appropriately dressed. Took Ibuprofen I think.
I didn't feel like eating much, midway during dinner. Something, discomfort in the stomach. I woke up at 12.30 or so - midnight. Tried desperately to sleep. Couldn't. Disturbed. I remember seeing photos of everyone. Then somehow sleep came again later.
Salkantay - it means shy, wild mountain in Quechua (salqa - shy, wild and antay - produces avalanches). They say it's one of the hardest ways to get to Machu Picchu. It's fine. Doable.
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