[Machu Picchu]: Day 3 of Salkantay trek (It's like a new trek, first sight of Machu Picchu)

(La Playa Sahuayaku - Lucmabamba Coffee farm - Inca trail - Llactapata, 12km, 2,700m camp, 400m+)

We started late today but it's ok because it's a short day - a little more than half day or so. Jhois didn't wake up or show up for a long time. It bothered some in the group - used to times, plans etc. :) ("Where's Jhois? It's already so late!").

Haan, the previous night I saw such beautiful constellations. Even the milky way. Just spread out. Spectacular. Why do we stay so far from all this?

The campsite was a coffee farm. Someone gave us demo of how they pluck coffee beans and process them into powder. It was fine. The man was shy and sincere.

I remember seeing a mother combing hair of her young daughter, doing her plait. Pink color sweater on the kid. I remembered Bhutan when I did the same. :)

I also noticed for some odd reason, there was the commode outside the bathroom, including the flush. Means there was one inside. But there was one right outside affixed to the wall - facing all the tents. No, I didn't use it. :)

I shaved looking at me in the mirror! A first for me on treks (I've gone on for days earlier without seeing myself). Ha, ha. This has to be a really weird trek. Are we in the wilderness or semi-wilderness. Is it over?

(But all my reservations would be more than made up later today - I just didn't know it then).

On the way, I realized we were on a second trek. Means, Salkantay finished. Everything here looked different. We were slowly ascending into forest area. It seemed like two treks into one.

I was generally happy. I remember this at the time when Jhois was giving us a history lesson at the beginning of the Llactapata trail head. It's one of the Inka trails. I was fooling around taking video with my camera.

But I had long conversations with Jhois. Before, after. Trying to understand the Quechua people. Here's what I remember.

[About Quechua]
Jhois has a Spanish father and a Quechuan mother. He relates more to the Quechua people. I asked if this were the case with his friends. He said it's mixed. Some people like to associate themselves more with Spanish. (cooler). Some more Quechua (more ancient).

I see this thing everywhere in the world. People are trying to find where they are originally from. Who are they? Who were their ancestors? At a younger age, they want to be more cool. At a later age, they search for meaning. When they learn history (that Spanish conquerers wiped out a lot of what was Quechua, Inca and many many tribes, ethnicities, their knowledge, temples, beliefs, education, customs...the English did the same in India), people try to go back and search for what was before all that happened. Who were they, really?

At one point, Jhois said (this was in Machu Picchu I think) - had the Spanish people found this, they would've erected a Catholic church here too.

Unlike in India, Spanish is quite intermingled into the population. People. Language. Religion. It's more difficult to unroot. Jhois mentioned in Lima - like when Cusco people go to Lima - they become more metro and when they return, they act more Spanish-like. Disassociating themselves with their customs or even sometimes struggling with language. He himself doesn't speak Quechua and is learning. He taught us to say, Solpayki - thank you - in Quechua. I remember him saying the language itself is more descriptive/illustrative, as you see. It's interesting.

I learnt in Lima (at the Museo de Larco and in Cusco museums and elsewhere), the Andeans are generally strongly visual people. They communicate through symbols and signs. It's very, very important. Animals play a strong role spiritually. After my shamanic experience, I learnt a lot more about it. They see life in three worlds:

Uku pacha (lower world) - symbolized by snake, transformation and rebirth
Kay pacha (our world) - symbolized by puma, strength and patience
Hanan pacha (higher world) - symbolized by condor, spiritual

[Back to the trek]
The Llactapata trek was a steady, up climb all the way. We entered a cloud forest. Beautiful. On the way, near the trail head, I remember seeing a table with a sign ("Andean Starbucks Coffee"). (Sarah and Andrea told us later they asked around for Starbucks, haha!).

I mostly trekked up with Dr. M. We stopped in between where he bought Inca cola for everyone. I liked that spot. It was nice. It must've been around 2pm or so. We took pics etc. Peaceful views. Luscious, green, flowers, river below, forest, mountains all around everywhere you see. They even have an orange flag at this point. The chef and porters carried stuff on their back.

At one point, I saw a black/red caterpillar like thing. It was dying. Not yet dead. He had a red under-bottom but black top. Was moving his head slowly, curled up. But flies and other insects were already on, eating him/her, sucking into him. In a hurry. Frantically. Nature doesn't wait. Nature doesn't care. It keeps moving, moving.

I remember hugging one tree (the photo looks weird now!). But something happened. More on this in a bit, may be in the other separate note.

There was a sign called Puncoloc. At this point, I left Dr. M and Jhois. I kept going. I had a deeply surreal, meditative experience on this part of the trial. I felt like removing my shoes. I carried it with the laces tied on my shoulders. Just my feet. The soil. Earth. Pachamama. I've described this separately. Why did I have that experience? I don't know. I hugged two more trees. It didn't feel very different from hugging a person.

An electric blue/white butterfly.

I reached campsite. And I was like oh, now I'm going to see Machu Picchu. All these years. And now I'd have a glimpse. How would it be? I went all the way to the end of the campsite. Crossing horse dung. One thorn too inside. Removed it. I took pics of myself to remember this thing. There were large mountains in the background. Then I decided to come out of myself and join the others. I did that.

Beautiful, beautiful campsite. We had great lunch. During lunch, Jhois said there's Machu Picchu. Huh? I said, where? I think I asked him, so where's Machu Picchu. It was right in front of us. It was the mountains I saw when I went all the way to the end. And then I saw it - the terraces. Waynapicchu on the left - the smaller mountain. Machu Picchu mountain on the right. Once you see it, you always see it. My God! It's like that old woman-young woman drawing. Once you get the perspective, you always get it.

I just so enjoyed. (Andrea said, "This is a new Praveen!" - I think she said later that night).

The lunch was very nice, I remember that. I ate a lot. We finished whatever was there. Must've been 3pm or so.

I spent many hours drawing that afternoon after lunch. Blissful. I remember everything so distinctly. Like Bruce said, when you draw, you remember. It's true. It's just there deep in my memory.

That night's dinner was so much fun. Our group came together. Dr. M was in his funniest best. Mads started teaching us Danish. This is what he said:

rødgrød med fløde

What it sounds like is khol, ghol me flu!! It's one pudding.

Haha :)

Then Sarah shared some joke she heard about Italian not revealing secrets because his hands were tied. Needs hands to talk. :)

Andrea talked about bah - how it's used like La in Singapore at the end of every sentence. Bah.

Dr. M narrated a real joke. Where a nurse wanted to greet an Indian cardiologist. Someone told her to say Behn-chut. And she did. 

So everyone was at it.

Somehow the topic shifted to cows. And I couldn't resist. I told all I know about cow factories. 

I slept very happy. Still with the whole dinner conversations ringing.

There was an English couple. Very scattered. They carried everything. Cooked. Must be in 60s. He said, "Don't take our bags" or something next morning. 

Andrea later told me - that afternoon - she was also sitting for many hours. And was thinking through everything about her life.

It is such a place.

[Machu Picchu]: Day 2 of Salkantay trek (already the descend!)

(Wayrachmachay - Chaullay - Ccollapampa La playa - Sahuayaku, 18km, 2,400m camp, 1,400m -)

Salkantay is an odd, odd trek. Just like it was odd to just simply jumpstart on day 1, it was odd to descend all the way and finish off on Day 2. Just like that. :) But it was one long, long day. That too on the painful bus-road (this was bad on the knees - the mountainous climbs were actually very good).

In the morning, I wrote my stuff. Some local song was playing the background. It was nice peaceful. I meditated and was able to be in my tent. There were hut-like permanent things on these campsites. The tents would be laid inside. More organized I must say. I liked having Milo. When I was writing, I could hear Dr. M and Sarah laughing.

Dr. M was in amazing spirits. Fully recovered, energetic and happy. Great attitude. Was able to put his things behind. I think I gave the knee brace.

Jhois shared one painful experience - his first time as a guide. How his group kept drinking, doing drugs, misbehaved etc. Apparently from Israel (he said this in the end). Oddly, I heard similar stories in Ladakh. I think it must have to do with the compulsory military service. They (very young people) must feel liberated when it's over. That they almost faced death and came out alive. And they just simply want to let go.

The bus road was long. It's actually a muddy road. After a point, it just became meditative - one foot after the other. On and on and on...

We went through two cable cars. Dr. M wondered if it could snap.

(Sarah kept saying, "Oh snap!" generally as an expression - mostly for something positive. Like a nice dish comes on the table. Oh snap!)

On a 3rd cable car, we saw a man pulleying himself from one end to the other. Dr. M and Mads discussed the physics of it. (Mads studied physics).

One area, we saw this huge tower - one leg almost to the end of the mountain. There was lot of soil erosion. A huge, really huge plastic sheet was laid on the side of the mountain. To prevent more erosion. Dr. M wondered how they planted those towers in between these mountains in the first place. I was reminded of Gasa - in Bhutan - at the end of it, we would see these signs of development. Here we saw it on Day 2. :) But it was nice still.

One of the porters was wearing a t-shirt that said "Super Porter". Their strength - both mental and physical - is just amazing. And it's so consistently amazing in various parts of the world.

In the mountains, the smallest of things magnify in proportion. My toe nails had grown in the week leading up to the trek and I hadn't cut them. It would bother me inside the shoe.

The lunch was a long break for some reason despite it being a long day. It was on the top floor place. Nice lunch point. Some camp area types. There were two dogs that were lying around in the grass. I also did that - on a plastic sheet. Wanted to feel, what they feel. :)

We reached late, long day generally. More so because of the bus road. There was some cloud-forest area. 

There was campfire etc. at camp but I was occupied in my own tent. At dinner, the chef got some turkey fire. I had pisco sour. 

The horse-men left after this.

At the pulley area, I remember seeing one hiker with a white beard. Thin. With his large back pack. I thought he was older. When he approached he was young. Why do I remember him.

[Machu Picchu]: Day 1 of Salkantay Trek (Salkantay Pass)

Day 1: Soraypampa - Salkantaytampa - Salkantay Pass - Wayracmachay, 15km, +/- 850m altitude.

The previous night, we met at the intro. I met Mads, Andrea and our guide Jhois. Felt that Alpaca is very organized generally. They gave us duffel bags and plastic bags that we could put our stuff into. It standardizes everything for them.

Normally, treks take time to take you up to the high-point. You pass through various landscapes. But with Salkantay, Day 1 is the most difficult, also long. You get to go the pass - get your high - right away, like just 5-6 hours into the trek. It's almost like someone gives you a lift to basecamp.

We were picked up from our hotels at around 4.30am. We kept driving until 8am. I recall trying to use the headspace app in the vehicle. Everyone else was mostly sleeping.

Around 8am, we reached Mollepata for a break. It was kinda a village. I noticed that everyone greets, especially beyond Cusco. Buenos Dias, buenos dias...There were a few shops, dogs, one nice tree right in the center. I remember seeing one small electronic repair shop with a computer monitor completely open and naked.

A large group of men (possibly workers) - some were wearing cowboy hats - they were all standing in a large truck. Andrea awkwardly remarked (and at that time her loudness was particularly noticeable to me), "God, they are all being taken like cattle."

Around 9.30am, we reach the trailhead - Soraypampa (3,900m). It was nice and misty. Mads was grinning widely (again, I remember because Andrea remarked) - just happy to soon start trekking. Our chef made some nice breakfast. We even took a group photo.

I stretched. Still nervous how my knees (left particularly) would behave.

While we waited, the weather opened up and we had our first glimpse of Salkantay and the other peak was called Humantay. It was nice. Glaciers, white, surrounded by clouds.

I was still getting to know Dr. M in an outdoors environment. He was excited. Happy. Taking lots of pics (I noticed this in Cusco too). He hadn't rested or acclimatized properly the previous days. Always restless, active. I said as much as I could. Milan would've been frustrated :)

At Salkantaypampa (4,150m), we stopped at a small hut. I saw a small boy - may 4-5 years old, holding one plastic bag with fruits. Cute. He was staring. I went and tickled him on his belly and he opened up - smiling and engaging after. He and his father in the hut. They sold agua, inca cola, souvenirs and stuff. I was naturally attracted to one Condor keychain.

We kept going, kept going. It started raining. Alpaca even gave plastic ponchos to everyone. I didn't use mine. During lunch, I noticed the chef actually wore a Chef hat (this is too much I thought). The food was excellent. Made everyone happy and settled. Some rice pilaf and one bajji like thing, corn. This might've been around 2pm or so. One cow also visited the chef's side. :)

Around 3pm-3.30pm, we reached the pass. (I know all the times because I'm seeing the info on the photos now as I write). It's at 4,600m. I can't say it was super difficult. I kept going slowly, as usual, at my pace. Without rushing. Dr. M too was mostly fine. Little beginning to struggle. The rest were faster. They reached 10-15min before we did and waited for us at the top.

We took pics (nice group ones). I was happy. I even took one with M logo. Very nice views all along. Reminded me of several passes. Dry. Stones. Memories left by people. Sacred.

On the way down, I was deep in conversation with Mads (it also helped me keep my mind occupied). He told me all about growing up in Denmark. I think he's from Aarhus (pronounced so differently that I heard it like Ouus) - the second highest city. His mom works at a hospital - there are only 8 in all of Denmark. He said, she often complains about interoperability of medical records and how they can't share with other hospitals etc. Wah, universal problem!

He talked about how the social infrastructure is very good - free university education, free healthcare. The trend of taking a gap year after high school (around 16 years). And then again before Masters education. He's 23. 

I remember seeing an ashy-colored rabbit like animal peeking out of the rocks and running away. I now figured it's a chinchilla - a rat! I also saw red colored rocks.

Sarah and Andrea were always ahead. Dr. M was behind.

Then I waited for Dr. M and we kept walking together. It was getting late now. May be 4.30pm or so. It's my trekking rule (perhaps everyone's) to reach camp before dark. Preferably by 5.30pm or before so that you are well-settled. Rather start early than reach late.

I remember telling Dr. M - we'll be late etc. And eventually we were.

We approached the village Wayracmachay around 6.15pm+. Around then. It was getting quite dark. I was able to find my way through the trails. Thankfully Jhois kept waiting ahead. After a point, it became impossible to find the trail. 

The continuous rain had made everything slushy. We would've been totally lost had we not seen Jhois every 10-15min. I remembered that day in Chadar with d. I narrated several trekking stories to Dr. M to distract and engage his mind.

I think I took his bag as well. Earlier he had refused to carry two trekking sticks, now he struggled. I gave him mine. He was wearing jeans. Didn't have proper trekking shoes (socks must've been wet). I'm sure he had a very frustrating time. He understood at the end of it all anyways.

We must've reached camp a little before 7pm. Very, very late. It was pitch dark.

Guess we had seen it all for a Day 1.

In the dining tent, Jhois told us a joke. Something about his professor. A fish. That said blue, blue, blue...it was so funny! I can't remember it now. ha!

Dr. M was quite shaken. Wouldn't eat. He was wearing t-shirt and shorts. I repeated a few times so that he would get appropriately dressed. Took Ibuprofen I think. 

I didn't feel like eating much, midway during dinner. Something, discomfort in the stomach. I woke up at 12.30 or so - midnight. Tried desperately to sleep. Couldn't. Disturbed. I remember seeing photos of everyone. Then somehow sleep came again later.

Salkantay - it means shy, wild mountain in Quechua (salqa - shy, wild and antay - produces avalanches). They say it's one of the hardest ways to get to Machu Picchu. It's fine. Doable.

[Machu Picchu]: Words before flight

It's 4.22am on 15th April. Dr M and I are waiting in the lobby of Rumi Punku for Alpaca person. Joyce is our guide and group leader.

What am I feeling? I feel comfortable. Little enthu and waiting to go into the mountains. One part of me is thinking oh this is such a short trek. It'll be too easy and such. Other part is saying anything can happen, be careful. Also my knees have to help and play along.

These past few days in cusco have been very nice. I've immersed myself in the place. It was nice.

I'll go now. 

[Machu Picchu]: I'm in Cusco

I lose track of days now. But I arrived just yesterday in Cusco. May be 4-5 days ago in Lima.

The minute the flight landed in Cusco - Peruvian Airlines - the effect was just transformational. Back in Lima airport, I had mild back pain after lifting my bags or something. Prashanth had warned! I was thinking. I was in one odd mood - wrote some reactive stuff in the airport about stuff of the past. So mood was ok-ok.

Flight was ok. I was reading Age of Kali - William Dalrimple. I liked the first sight - it's like green velvet over the mountains.

Then when I landed. The air. The mountains. My god - it was blissful. Transformational. A boost of energy suddenly. I became surprisingly just joyous of finally being here.

It's been a long journey I thought. I associate this region with Bhaskar and that Utpal Datt movie - Agantuk - stranger. I took pic of the plane standing next to the security person.

Outside Martiza met me - from the hotel. She took a pic of me - I wanted her to. Then I sent it to everybody via whatsapp. I wondered why. But I sent it anyways.

We drove to Rumi Punku hotel - I chose it for the name. I imagined Cusco to be much smaller than it is - the center of the town is exactly that way. Cobbled stone paths, up and down. Just beautiful. It has the vibe of a Lukla in Nepal or the smaller towns above Manali or McLeodganj. Something about it.

I'm sipping Inca Kola now. Coca Cola makes it. People seem to like it here. I don't like colas that much. I just wanted to taste it.

That night, I ate at Organica or some place like that - the best and tastiest food I've had in a long time. All organic. And people - the waitresses - they were glowing. Fresh.

I could feel mild altitude stuff - so I've taken it generally easy. And it's nice. I've been working though on and off. I keep thinking when will I fully disconnect. It's been awhile since Stok Kangri. So I must've not passed a single day (except during advance course yes) without a device in the last 2 years may be! Wow!

Today is my second day in Cusco. It's really nice. Lunch I went to Pachapapa. Found it bit expensive but something interesting happened. I sat at the common table. There was a group but we soon got talking. Masun from Guatemala, Kerby from Atlanta, Estefiana from Peru, Linda from Latvia. Remember Latvia - there was the father-son from Latvia on the Stok Kangri trek. We had a nice chat and an enjoyable meal. I resisted sharing contact. I thought about it. Why.

We meet so many people in our lives. They come and go. Some stay longer. Some want you to stay longer. They asked me many questions. While answering I realized - while saying - I do like coming by myself. It's a joy. I like leaving large spaces in my time (I couldn't explain this to Dr M when he asked what would you be doing there - well, nothing). I really like doing nothing. It leaves me enough freedom to do anything. And there's joy in that.

Just before lunch I walked into Peru Shamans. Before that I chatted with any seller who wanted to chat with me. People selling paintings. One lady who came from 30km to sell woolen kinda things.

Richard - Michigan alum - whom I met in Lima told me about Ayahuasca - he said go to Sacred Valley - go to Melissa Wasi. Ayahuasca - I read one article about it in NY Times too. Long back. In Peru Shamans, I chatted with Janet and Betty - who seemed to run the place. Betty was very calm. She went through everything in great detail. Slowly. Many things about the ceremony. About the spiritual significance of it. It's almost religious. May be fully religious. The shaman is from the Amazon jungles. He keeps going back to his family there. I saw the pic - I felt he would be accustomed enough the travelers. I signed up for after the trek.

So that's my Cusco. I just love how everything forms around me.

It's on my mind to write my articles for the following two weeks. Let it come. I wrote the last one on the plane and I must say it touched a chord with people.

I keep working in different places. Like this hotel. Then the Museo Larco - I visited that on my second day in Lima (it's a wonderful museum - I spoke to cynthia from there re Sw). I did the quarterly call from the 511 Lima Hostel. Life goes on actually. It's all in our head that we need to limit ourselves to workplaces.

I know already I'll miss Cusco. Some places are you. Because they belong in your life at certain times. And the memory gets deeply associated with it - makes all these connections in the brain. Detroit too. I went to downtown last week sometime. Looking for the places I used to go many, many years ago.

[Machu Picchu]: Loitering in Lima

i landed at 5.30am I think. Totally tired. Couldn't sleep well on the plane.

I'm at the Javier restaurant in Barranco district. Its a bohemian Neighborhood. They struggled to find me a vegetarian causa limena. I settled for something else. It overlooks the Pacific ocean.

Google Translate app has been a true blessing. I've been able to get around and speak and even in some cases follow what someone was saying.

When I reached 511 Lima hostel where am staying, I met César - an interesting caretaker. He hardly spoke English. We managed to understand each other using Google. He directed me to Kennedy parque area for breakfast. I was too early for everything. But the free wifi worked on the street so I spoke to A and S. then nana and mummy. Mira Flores is indeed a hip Neighborhood.

I waited La Lucha to open by 8am. Had vegetarian and heuvo sandwich and some juice. It was nice. Then I walked back. I've walked more than 12km everywhere today. I found this area very nice and upscale. Everything is clean.

I couldn't place the people. They are shy and look away. Some look at me twice because they know I'm not from here but I could be. Its funny. When you start speaking people are very friendly. It would've been easier if I knew more Spanish. I say whatever by learning from the app but when they respond I'm stumped. I figure it out sometimes.

The wait back at the hostel was long. Then I got my room. I was surprised that its so small. Then I got used to it. Now I think I even like it. That's the way it is. Really makes me wonder why we have such strong preferences about anything. The mind and body get used to everything.

Lunch I ate at Manzano a chifa (Chinese fusion restaurant). They made egg fried rice for me. I was sitting next to an older man.

[break]

I'm in Cusco now. But I'll complete what happened that day before the memory fades.

The older man I sat next to couldn't complete his food. He offered me his food. I politely responded soy vegetariana.

During sunset, I went to the Miraflores bay area. I don't know what you call it. there were surfers all around. Pacific ocean looked fantastic. Srikesh messaged right after asking for a drawing for a tattoo in Samika's name. I'm yet to do it.

Evening Patti at the Lima hostel recommended I go to the Barranca district for dinner. I did. And it was fun. First the taxi driver was extremely cooperative with the change. We searched until we got it. Then at the restaurant, I'd use Google Translate and say the food was delicious - it was a kind of a salad. He would take off in spanish - and I wouldn't catch a word. I'd just say si, si.

After dinner, I went back to kennedy parque area and loitered into Lima's urban jungle...

I walked 13+ km that day. Loitering.

[Machu Picchu]: Transiting via Mexico City

I'm in Mexico City airport. The wifi works like a charm. Was speaking to Samir and he reminded me of the blog and writing.

Many things have happened since I've written.

My back and knee saga continued. It's not fully gone either. But magically doesn't show up on soft surfaces. Only roads long distance are not so comfortable.

I went for a long physio duration - like a month or so. Leading up to America trip.

I've been in US since 10 days or so. First NJ/NY with clients. Then Michigan for the board meeting. Both trips were quite productive. Even shadowed a patient procedure - which was something. Agnes her name was. 82 years old. Anyways.

I wanted to write "Words before flight" - I didn't. I forgot. But I was really excited to get the boarding passes in my hand. It adds a big reality to the whole thing - somehow. I've been collecting boarding passes since last year or so.

As soon as I landed in Mexico - I wondered how it would be, how the immigration and customs would be. How people would be. The immigration officers were very young and friendly. Customs was friendly too. Less lines. The whole process was a breeze.

I have a longish layover. I took a long layover for some reason. I think to spend time in Mexico. But I'm feeling sleepy and tired now. Lima, Peru is 6 hours flight. Long. It's like a red eye. Booking time, I didn't realize that the countries are on Central time - mathlab, I didn't even think about all that. Just booked.

Anyway. Now I just want to sleep.

Ann Arbor was nice. Very nice weather today morning. I stayed in an airbnb across Kellogg eye center. Argo park and nature trail was right next to it. So was the river. I went for a short walk this morning. It was fresh and nice.

I've just been very busy the last many days. One thing after another. Even less sleep.

Dr. M is coming to Cuzco on 13th. It's fun. He booked his tickets, I think on a whim. Like kinda desperate wanting to get out of everything quickly. I would've never thought he'd come. I told many people I was going. But this was unexpected.

When I shopped for trekking stuff and meds, I remembered my previous treks. people also. It'll be something new for me this time. I'm kinda on my own. Like may be the chadar trek.

I went to Detroit downtown yesterday after many many years. When I was in college or may be after when we were starting up -- may be 2004-05...I'd head out there. Because it was dangerous etc. It added an element of adventure. Now, the downtown is full of people. Alive. Safe even. I took an Amtrak - never did that before. And a bus - quite randomly. Saw one stopping and jumped into it.

Detroit art museum and area near Wayne State etc. looks very cool.

Anyways...so these are indeed words before flight to Peru. What do I feel? Nothing much. Sleepy. Slight body aches here and there. I'm happy I'm going. I've never been on this part of the planet. may be it'll help me know again and again how small my world is. That all I need to do is lift my head up, look up, peak out.

I've been using Google translate app - it's very good. I downloaded spanish one for offline use. So I simply type what I want to say and then memorize it and say it. Factura is bill or invoice! Haan that restaurant waiter took more money in dollars but I played along for some reason. Just.

[Stok Kangri] The natgeo Stok article

Mind games on the mountains.

Here's that link. I still remember things about this trip. Weird the mind is. Moments just pass. Yes, the distilled memory stays. It's all there somewhere. But we put heaps of life on top of it. That we can hardly see it.

Mountains...I think I have a crave right now! Ufff.

Kili: The natgeo article

I wonder why I never wrote for myself. But here's what I wrote for the world.

http://www.natgeotraveller.in/the-snows-of-kilimanjaro-climbing-up-africas-highest-mountain/

The PDF of the original story is here.

The memories are so vague now. I'll write sometime. All those distilled memories. It won't mean anything to anyone. But everything to me. 

[Machu Picchu]: Got visa + back/knee issues

So I have my visa to Peru. :) They had a handful of requirements. The oddest being a day-by-day itinerary with pictures of the monuments! Anyway, it's done.

In less than a month, I'll go to US. And in just a few days after, after the ann arbor trip, I'll be off to mexico then to lima then to cusco. The visa process forced me to make my plans, whatever they are - with reserving hotels etc. I found a "poshtel" in Lima - a new trend I see.

Peru visa requirements

1. Passport valid for at least 1 year.
2. 02 visa application form (DGC-005) duly filled and personally signed by the applicant.
3. 02 passport sizes colour photographs with white background.
4. 01 photocopy of the passport is required at the time of submission.
5. Return ticket or reservation from Peru.
6. Letter from your company indicating the purpose and the time of your stay. (In case of retired, house wife, student, minors etc., covering notes is required for the sponsorship of the trip and all expenses).
7. Proof of financial capability- last 3 months Bank Statement duly stamped.
8. Latest Income Tax receipt of the applicant with Income Tax Dept. seal or Notary seal.
9. Day by Day tour itinerary with pictures of monuments.
10. Hotel reservation from Peru. In case of sponsored trips:

A)    Sponsor in Peru or India should present a written affidavit in which he / she states that he/she shall be responsible to bear all costs of boarding and lodging of the applicant or repatriation in case of traveller has acquired illegal status or does not have sufficient funds to return.

B)    Identity and Financial proofs of the sponsor.

***********

The pain

The other thing that's taking prime time is my back pain, later knee pain. It started I think with the motorcycle drive from Hyderabad. Long long ride. But nothing happened for a few days. Then the bike didn't start. Then while kickstarting again and again, I got a pull on the left. 

It never starts as a pain. I went to Crossfit after. Slight discomfort. Two days later, I pushed hard at Crossfit. That's it. The pain started. It stayed for weeks. I went to a physio after a week. He was one odd guy. I abandoned it after 5 rounds.

Then I did nothing. Just ran at Juhu from end to end. At the park. At Ahaan's sports day, I ran like mad - for my capacity. I had told him I'll do whatever is my best. I won a silver medal. And the pain automatically shifted from my back to knee. My left knee. Of course, my left knee. 

It surfaced after years. In 2003, at Univ of Michigan hospital a sports doctor told me I had the ileotibial band syndrome. My left knee is more bowed than my right. The deformity has increased over the years! :) crazy.

Anyway, I found a nice physio in Vile Parle - Asha Shah. As good healthcare providers always do,she listened to me intently. The entire narration from 17 years ago to now. Then she examined me. She's been working on my knee for a week now. I'm significantly better. It's amazing how the body functions. Even as my knee started bowing more, it strained the other nerves in the area.

All this is for the Salkantay trek. I was quite nervous a couple of weeks back. Now I know it'll be fine. When I center my knee, it doesn't come - the pain. When I let it go more outward - it comes -the pain. It's so weird, I can't even clearly explain to others but I get it. 

As the body ages, the small problems from youth accentuate. How come we never discuss this in medicine?

Chalo Salkantay, I'm coming soon. Wonder what's drawing me. Hmmmm...something. I can see mountains. I can feel the wind. Of being lost. The ground. The pebbles. The unknown. I just feel so at home.

[Listening to Preet by Jasleen Royal on repeat of course!]