Chadar trek: Time at the Shey palace and stupas

It was amazing. I enjoyed the stupa - could said there in the tranquility and just gaze around. there was a school in the monastery. I met a dog there. It was interesting. I didn't want to go back to the guest house so stopped at this market place. people here are amazing. there's a class going on - a computer class.

I kept looking up and how people built all this. why did they build it? I met a monk at the palace - there was a stunning buddha - a huge one inside.

Chadar trek: Arriving at Leh

This whole day was about acclimatization. I didn't realize the seriousness until people around me started falling sick, puking, fainting...AMS is serious stuff. It was cold - mad cold like crazy. Met the interesting gang - Milan the leader of course, then Tanya the graphic designer, then divya the tam-panju, then ajay the ladhakh repeater, then vikram with the solar charger, then bhavana the economist, amrita the 6month traveler, hazel who fainted. tensing of course and his great family looking after us - they are amazing.

I peed like a million times. Spent the whole day drinking water and shivering in the cold.

Dumping in warmer places

Am taking a peaceful dump at Delhi's newly minted terminal T3. The next many dumps will be in cold, cold Ladhakh. I spent the night at the airport. The body is amazing. You really don't need the trappings of modern day comfort. I was really uncomfy then very comfy on the chairs of the visitors' lounge. They are very cleverly designed to discourage long term sitting.
Met the team- my traveling companions. Nice. Milan reaches out very well.

Day 0 - Dilli airport

Am here at the Foodie's Bar - quite a un-unique name I must say - at the Dilli airport. It's nice though. The staff is trained to please. A couple of YLV luggage fans are busy on their Macs. They look to be from the fashion industry - I saw large pics of male models on their Macs. A couple - a bald white man and a was-pretty blond woman who've been here a long time are moving away. I'm reading about China building a railroad into Laos - Laos and Vientiane a place of my interest - because of that Finnish guy I met in Andamans. I can see his bald head-face now, it's amazing.

I'm supposed to rest for the trek. But am having this Kingfisher beer in an emerald colored bottle. After just two beers, I don't want another one. I made a few phone calls. Mind is quite random. I want to sleep on the airport floor. Suz said how can you? Your body needs proper rest. Hey, my mind needs a proper chill. If it feels scratchy in the morning, I'll find a lounge with shower afyer security. They won't let me in now. China is interesting. I need to feed myself well tonight. Bakrid = bakri, Thanksgiving = turkey, Chadar = cheeku - enjoy! :)

Words before flight - Chadar trek

So am sitting at gate A4 after a mad yday at the office, after emailing 3days ka stuff on one night until 1am, after a cranky day w Ahaan today, after getting a no-thanks for an interesting proposal :), after going to the absolutely wrong old terminal, after buying 4 thermals, 4 pairs of blister-free socks, 3 pairs of new undies, after buying a whistle+compass+thermometer all in one, after eating a super breakfast of aloo and gobi parathas (ate 2 each) at vinita's place with suz and ahaan, after deciding last minute not to go to that Adventure 18 place to buy some gear stuff and take a chance, after not booking a place to stay in Delhi for tonight and deciding to stay at the "sleep pod" in the airport, after have a mini nap with Ahaan and seeing him awake quicker than usual, after a semi calm kriya pre-lunch, after a nice early morning blahdebloo, after constantly feeling I've forgotten something.

Okay am ready Chadar - let's have fun and figure you out!

I've been here before...

I'm a couple of days away from my Ladakh - underprepared, overwhelmed with other local stuff, work stuff clogging the brain and fully excited! I've been here before. During the motorcycle trek - it was pretty much the same. The Mumbai rider I met (Prashanth) along the way was shocked to not find all the motorcycle spares that I was supposed to be carrying. Oh well, right now am missing polypropelene thermals, undies, socks and other similar stuff - realized when I talked to Pankaj today who's done Chadar before. Will figure it out. I always figure it out. Right now, the whole software stuff is driving me mad and up the wall - am almost like wanting to go up to ladakh, come down quickly and get on with getting things done here -- but what's the point...drop it!

Chadar: The plan

DAY 1
Early morning flight to leh. Transfer to Guest House. spend the day resting. Remember we have flown to 10,500 feet, and need to acclimatise.

DAY 2
in keeping with our acclimatisation schedule, this day will be light as well. A chance to see the monasteries around leh – driving of course. overnight at guest house.

DAY 3
last day in leh. We will do a short acclimatisation trek around leh to work the lungs and legs and help prepare for the rigour ahead. overnight at guest house.

DAY 4
The trek starts. We drive to Nemu, the confluence of the Zanskar and the indus, cross the river and move along the Zanskar to the start point of the trek at Alam Tilit. We descend to the river and trek to shingra (4 hrs). overnight in tent at camp by the river.

DAY 5
Trek to Dibyokma (4 -5 hrs). overnight in tent at camp by the river.

DAY 6
Trek to Nyerak Pullu (6 hrs). overnight in tent at camp by the river.

DAY 7
some distance away leave the river and follow the lingshed nala upto the beautiful village of lingshed (6 hrs). overnight in Zanskari house.

DAY 8
Rest day in lingshed. Visit the monastery. lie in the sun, write, and do nothing at all! overnight in Zanskari house.

DAY 9
Return. Trek to Nyerak Pullu (5 hrs). overnight in tent at camp by the river.

DAY 10
Trek to Dibyokma (5-6 hrs). overnight in tent at camp by the river.

DAY 11
Trek to Alam Tilit (5 hrs). Transfer to vehicles, onward to leh. overnight at guest house.

DAY 12
Back home! Early morning flight to Delhi.

NOTES:
The plan above should be treated as a guideline only. The nature of the trek is unique – the night halts and distances travelled on the river each day are tweaked and adapted, depending upon the conditions encountered. The trek allows a day of cushion-time to ride out inclement conditions without compro- mising the trek. These are outside chances – but it makes more sense to build in the buffer, than ruin a trip. Also, should conditions be favourable, there is a scope of changing the schedule so as to gain more time on the Chadar!

Chadar: my list

Questions?
- satellite phone ka number for emergency contact? (it doesn't matter actually)
- do I need nalgene bottle? (no, will be provided)
- do I need a sleeping bag? (no, will be provided)
- do I carry a flash light?
- do I carry a rain jacket? (wind sheeter)

My list of things to buy/ carry
- hand sanitizer
- two strong plastic bags for shoes
- baby wipes (20 wipes)
- quick drying towel
- midsize towel
- small soap
- thermals (3-4 changes) - polypropelene
- Diamox (1 strip)
- medication kit
- band aid (10)
- chadar shoes and socks
- point and shoot camera, extra battery
- rain jacket
- flash light with lithium batteries
- sun screen
- parachut oil quick ones (did it for the motorcycle trip)
- vaseline
- long trousers, long t-shirts
- 1 mid-layer
- 4-5 inner wear
- 1 litre bottle if you wish
- 1 pack of electral ORS
- crocs

Stuff am getting from Milan
HEAD:
Warm cap - Rs 250 -
Balaclava - Rs 400 -
Head lamp - Rs 500 -
Glacier glasses (specs) - Rs 350 -

UPPER BODY:
Down jacket (which we can get in Leh for approx Rs 2,500)
Outermost Goretex jacket with fleece liner - Rs 3,000 -
Thick fleece jacket - Rs 750 -
Micro-fleece jacket - Rs 500 -
Poly pro liner (inner most) - Rs 800 -

LOWER BODY:
Outermost Goretex trouser - Rs 900 -
Fleece liner (will get two just in case) - Rs 350 per -
Poly pro liner (inner most) - Rs 800 -

GLOVES:
Inner layer - Rs 500 -
Outer layer - Rs 500 -

ALSO:
Collapsible trekking stick - Rs 500 -
Sleeping bag liner - Rs 750 -

Are you mad or insane?

Why I can't carry the D700 camera?

bcos my fingers could fall off...

excerpts from Milan's mail..

***
Tough call. The added weight can be a bitch. However it will be
difficult to give a clear 'yes' or 'no' on this one.

Firstly, do understand that if you do not have multiple batteries, you
are wasting your time. Batteries drain fast in low temperatures. In
any case, you will need to carry the batteries in an inner pocket of
your jacket, and deploy them when you shoot.

This operation can be tricky, and you may need to strip down to your
inner gloves to achieve the dexterity you need. In doing so, the hands
can get cold!!

On the same note, do understand that handling a camera is painful…
since you almost certainly need to operate it only in your inner
gloves, and will lead to freezing you fingers!!

***

inn-tuh-resting!

Why do I do this? Chadar Winter Trek begins...almost

Am about a week away (leaving to Delhi on Jan 29th, to Leh on 30th). The reality is sinking in after reading Milan's mail. I think the part that made me read twice is that Leh is shut down in winter, the water doesn't flow through the pipes because it's frozen. Of course, I knew that. I mean I intuitively should know that. So if Leh's that way then Chadar, the frozen river will be a little more interesting! :)

Here's Milan's (our trek leader) mail...


*******

Folks, its around the corner!
The fact that we are off is finally hitting me... big time!!
I write from the lobby of a hotel in Kathmandu, from where I leave this afternoon with the goodies. Its all done! Now fingers and toes crossed that I am not held up at Customs.

Road Ahead:
Over the next couple of days I will make packets of the gear, one per person, and request you to collect the same from my place.
Praveen and Hazel, we will need to put our heads together on how to get your stuff to Bombay. Please help.

Diamox:
Buy a strip each. You will have half a tab, starting the 29th morning, and then again on the 29th eve.
Its a half-tab, twice-a-day dose.
This will help you aclimatise.
DO NOT HAVE if you are sulfa drug allergic!!!
Side effects: There are a range of not-so-bad side effects, but the most popular is tingling in the hands and feet!
Plan on continuing with the medication for 3 to 4 days.

Personal Medical kit:
We have a comprehensive medical kit, but you are advised to carry a few of your faourite medicines... things that you know, from experience, suit you, and you react well to.

ORS:
Carry packets of Oral Rehydration Salts (eg. Electral). Carry large packets, which will produce ONE LITRE of fluid.
Carry 8 packets each.

Band Aid:
The typical long strip, and the large square patch. Great for blisters. 10 each.

Packing for the flight:
This is the most important part of your briefing, at this stage. Listen up!
When you disembark at Leh, you will step into sub-zero temperature. Boom! So you will need to be well clad.
Wear the Chadar shoes, and socks.
Wear thermals (not polypro) if you have them.
If you do not have thermals, no worries, T-shirt (long or half-sleee) is perfect.
Above this wear the micro-fleece and fleece (or keep them handy, to be deployed just before you disembark from the plane). Finally the Down Feather jacket. You will see that it packs amazingly small, and can be carried in a carry on bag without the bulk of the GoreTex jacket.
For your legs: Wear the fleece trousers, and then either normal trousers (or tracks).
Gloves, warm cap, neck gaiter to be kept in the carry-on bag as well

At Leh on day-one:
IMP: Make sure you are well hydrated at the Delhi airport, and drink whatever fluids are served on board the flight.
Typically a small water bottle is doled out. Keep one in reserve, and quaff it just before you de-plane at Leh.
You may feel a little heady at the airport. Meaning a little 'high'. "Take it easy. Keep it realxed and purposeful, and you will be ok. Remember you are in high altitude and that needs a little respect. The effects of the lack of available oxygen will only show up 4-6 hours later, so don't fool yourself if you feel ok at the airport. Slow and steady. :)
The airport and facilities are primitive compared to what we are used to. There is a single conveyor, and that too is pint size!! Typically there is a scramble to get the luggage, and only a few of us will be able to crowd around the belt. To make things easy, I will distribute pink ribbon pieces to each person, to tie on their bags, making it simple for us to identify each other's bags.
Do not 'carry' your bags please... only on trollies.

After that its only a short drive to the Guest House.

We are staying at Shanti Guest House in Changspa, Leh, owned by Tsering our guide.
Its one of the few places open at this season, as the rest of Leh shuts down for the winter.
Its a family-owned set-up, and the family looks after us.
The rooms are nothing spectacular... basic... but happily have gas heaters!
In Leh in winter, there is no running water in taps, as the plumbing is drained dry. (Freezing water expands and causes the pipes to burst)!
So we will need to pour water into the toilets. (happy initiation to what lies ahead!)
Hot water can be arranged in the rooms every morning.
Note: The water is from the local stream, as there is no municipal supply. So don't be thrown if the water is not clear as you are used to at your homes.

At the Guest House:
There is a lovely common area. Gather around for a briefing of what lies ahead!!
Basically expect to do little else that lie down, and drink plenty (and frequently visit the loo!)

m

******

inn-tuh-res-ting!