hmmmm...it was an interesting trip...I feel really sorry for Tibet...it's a loss...a deep loss...the culture, the people seemed confused...i don't know this thing about religion...why the desperation....each to his own yes...but still...i couldn't feel that thing inside...i tried yes...the human condition is about wanting to be understood...to feel free...to be accepted without judgment...to feel light within...we all want that thing we know within...sometimes it happens, sometimes not...it was a coming back this journey...a lapse with much in between...life turned...many shifts...but to not be seen for the present...of a rolling past, of an unknown future...years roll...i think about the body...it's a blessing...it's changed...stronger...got that summits book...the journeys...scomfortable...a surrounding peace...but how can you have cities within a mountain...but that's what we'll make it in the name of development...all the solar panels...it's fine...the phone connectivity...it's fine...the new buildings, the roads it's fine...the jobs it's fine...but it all comes at a deep, deep loss that you can't put your finger on...what is it that we want? for what? and what do we do after we get that? and then what? what is it that we are losing? what is it that we are gaining? everything that happens touches at a very deep level and it takes a long time to allow it to leave you...but it never does...every experience adds...it connects...it mixes...it makes it something of its own...anyone's guess where it'll go from here...life...yes only at those times...the heart is not an organ...but no one knows that...may be when we say heart we mean the soul...when we say mann we know not what we mean...and what about the soul of a region...of a people...of a time...of a mountain...does it matter? it'll be lost in the dusts of time...this region...these people...us...me...you...him...her...everything...like that moment in bhyrappa's parva...after the end of the battle...it's all lost anyways...the water washes everything over...i have nothing to say really...i feel sorry for the chinese too...what are you doing really? and what are you getting out of it? so what if they all become chinese? then what happens? what is chinese? even if you have a 200 year vision...so what? it's all a blink of time...to love truly, to be in love...to expand...and stay grounded at the same time...that's all there is to it...if you know then you know...that's that...
Sunday, September 9, 2018
[Tibet]: The rest of the days...
The road to Saga was washed out. Meaning we couldn't get out of there. Apparently Times of India covered it...sz knew of it...s-hil told her...so we took a very long round-about...driving 2,000+km across tibet to reach the border with Nepal. Our Chinese driver was phenomenal...i really liked him...most efficient of the crew...he wore jeans, a maroon jacket and a t-shirt...hardly spoke a word...was smiling at the end of it all...with his cigarette...we were at an odd hotel behind the china-india canteen...oh well...
We were only driving...driving...driving...i took a dump behind a big pole advertising something...it was most relieving! :) the journeys mattered...human...clouds...vast skies...wonder...back in time differently...fun...time flew...and i knew it would...
The last night and second-half day was very difficult...may be most challenging. felt empty. long traffic jam on a mountain. mind is a funny thing. how to be present...when present is burning into past...there was distress...this-that...we got lost...finally reaching kathmandu...landslides...the next morning was farmer's market near the president's house...then afterwards tamr took us to dwarka hotel...very interesting architecture...i struggled to stay put...but time passes by as it does...everyone said bye...i packed the water...they said i left the water bottle cover, food, glasses inside...of course i did...gave to that man who gave tape...stared at space which seemed nice for awhile...shopping before that which was fine...and left nepal.
We were only driving...driving...driving...i took a dump behind a big pole advertising something...it was most relieving! :) the journeys mattered...human...clouds...vast skies...wonder...back in time differently...fun...time flew...and i knew it would...
The last night and second-half day was very difficult...may be most challenging. felt empty. long traffic jam on a mountain. mind is a funny thing. how to be present...when present is burning into past...there was distress...this-that...we got lost...finally reaching kathmandu...landslides...the next morning was farmer's market near the president's house...then afterwards tamr took us to dwarka hotel...very interesting architecture...i struggled to stay put...but time passes by as it does...everyone said bye...i packed the water...they said i left the water bottle cover, food, glasses inside...of course i did...gave to that man who gave tape...stared at space which seemed nice for awhile...shopping before that which was fine...and left nepal.
[Tibet]: Day 9, 10, 11, 12 - Kailash
We left everything in Darchen. Our bags were small...3 or 4 packed into one duffel provided by the operators. I don't have any notes...only memories.
It was a pleasant start...mostly with d. rivers were flowing through mountains...slow, gentle climb. our pace was steady...there was this old tibetan man (I'd say "tash-ta-de") with a walking stick...lines on his face...smiling...wide teeth...mustache...he could've been from peru or elsewhere...all the same...our faces are old...they connect...deeply...our lines are from our past...flowing into the present...
tibetan buddhists...doing the kora (parikrama)...by prostrating...someone said it takes them 13 days...but i didn't see people doing it all the way...some would get out of cars...she was wearing pink rubber slippers in her hands...while prostrating...it was interesting to see...bonn (pre-buddhist religion...nongchuk called it)...they were doing the kora anti-clockwise...even turning the wheel anti-clockwise...who's to know how to find god...your god...some greeted...om namah shivaya...some were on ponies...the tibetan horse-men and women looked fine...smiling...
there were breaks...methodical ones...i liked...disciplined it was...i liked...we ate lunch around 12.45? or was it after 1...perfect time...one bird came eating on our puris...we had alu-puri for packed lunch...it was very, very nice morning...time unfolded from a lost past...skies...they sent rain sometimes i think bcos i had my cover...my goretex...
hmmm...where did we stay? oh ya...it was a longish entrance to that place...shed...(kept saying the tour operator's name)...there was a first view of kailash...a couple of chinese women were taking pics across the bridge...we were in Diraphuk...Sadhguru was to arrive the next day...he stayed in an off-white tent...some waited, took pics...they had a satsang...Chinmayananda group had arti...mayr said, falacy of religion or something like that...i wondered why...everything is unto its own...allow things to be...you move through it...
Day 2
The next day...we were to trek up to the north-face of Kailash...while we all started together...d went from the other side...mm, tilk and i...then g...then others...on left...it went on...beautiful views of Kailash...very enjoyable...seemed so real upclose...i mean, it was real...i was sometimes chanting when alone...i don't know why...just wanted a medium to lose track of external environment and go within...i did...again and again...repetition reduces the noise outside...the things that attract senses...the alert mind slowly goes within...in that state...suddenly i found myself near d, mm, tilk...they were on or near a glacier...i don't have much memory of the time...d says i was on left (possibly she/they followed me but how did i move ahead...)...i wanted to go on ahead...and then suddenly we were slipping...going down, down on the ice (glacier covered by scree)...and below was a river...in an odd way, it was home ground...i was very connected with the earth...the surface...there was a big rock...i was holding onto it...but it would slip too...other rocks slipped...slowly we stood up...or held on...sticks...one after the other...g was below near the river (small stream)...he looked nervous when i asked him if he can hold onto sticks...and there was the bag...we took awhile...may be 20min...the others had caught up...they waited...mm and tilk were on the other side...mm making a swimming type action (apparently he meant it's all flat on top...i read it as swim or use your hands?!)...they went away...finally we turned back...then back further...taking pics...this and that...it was nice those moments...some shared human experience...
Tilk and mm returned 5 hours later...we were quite worried...met and spoke to the tibetan head person...to send a sherpa up into the mountains to find them...i remember his eyes...they were big, bulging...something one would say blood-shot...without the blood...the sherpa selected was also a good guy...better than our operators...but we saw our guys up near the flag area (where prash had said, all flags move separately on their own but still do the same thing)...
tilk and mm returned...they were in a diff zone...touched the north face of Kailash...found stones, horses (which seemed like personal effects of people who left them there...prash picked two pieces and gave me...i want to return those pieces to the earth)...g cried...mm also something...reiki that night...and that vicks on the feet that tilk msged about...it was fine...
neerj and mm were to go back the next day...his goretex didn't work...but it also didn't rain after...
Day 3
It was the day of the Dolma La pass...5,600+m...Dr M said on the trek to salkantay...when I asked him about bp and such...bcos Dr. Hegde said don't go up etc. so Dr. M said...go back to the point you've been earlier and see how you feel...i guess that was the reason this was imp or wanted to go about this body thing methodically...crossfit helped clearly...lungs, heart were good...i'm so used to being under-estimated/doubted...mathlab whatever...you have to do your thing...steady...like the tree...being like the tree of however you are wanted...so it was good...this day...
it started in a hurried way...taking dump last minute...rushed...wanted to take that nice kailash pic bcos it opened itself...didn't like the rush...
there were 3 ladies we met along the way...in the pic she closed her eyes ufff...she told me take a sip of the water...i did...flags...buddhist flags on top...loooong cross over...the pass...Dolma La is written in English in its own Chinese way...there was this man...who coughed...when i gave him strepsils he said he had (need lots of strepsils generally)...he took our pic across Gowri Kund (they said don't go down there)...it was fine...green-blue water...the down you had to be used to it...how to go down mountains...then it's easier...
we spent 45min or so at that dhaba down...drinking hot water...there was this boy/man who managed the china-India canteens...he would do this pranaam...the tibetans managing the dhaba...very rough conduct...long, long walk to Zuthulphuk...
We got there...it was nice this shed place...where we stayed...pakodas and tea we got...no bathrooms...all in open...the next morning tilk accompanied me to take a dump...a first for me to look at someone (even in darkness with the head-light)...while taking a dump! anj and others returned very late (9pm or so)...there was something about them returning...i somehow wasn't inclined to go and engage...was letting people be...mayr returned saying hey we helped mamiji get down etc.
Day 4
It was a really short day. We started early morning. Playing that movie-quiz game...it was a nice, pleasant walk...then we talked about favourite foods...bhrti said she liked ribs...ribs...:) nothing from home...d of course said rasam :)
horses would come in the way...towards the end...there was this vast view...mountains in the distance...and solar panels...clouds...vast, vast clouds showing the distance...d said of depth re photos...our eco bus hadn't arrived...it allowed me to go up, take pics...there was this yak horns...it had hair...the black hair...it was something...meaning it was telling me here was a living creature...
It was a pleasant start...mostly with d. rivers were flowing through mountains...slow, gentle climb. our pace was steady...there was this old tibetan man (I'd say "tash-ta-de") with a walking stick...lines on his face...smiling...wide teeth...mustache...he could've been from peru or elsewhere...all the same...our faces are old...they connect...deeply...our lines are from our past...flowing into the present...
tibetan buddhists...doing the kora (parikrama)...by prostrating...someone said it takes them 13 days...but i didn't see people doing it all the way...some would get out of cars...she was wearing pink rubber slippers in her hands...while prostrating...it was interesting to see...bonn (pre-buddhist religion...nongchuk called it)...they were doing the kora anti-clockwise...even turning the wheel anti-clockwise...who's to know how to find god...your god...some greeted...om namah shivaya...some were on ponies...the tibetan horse-men and women looked fine...smiling...
there were breaks...methodical ones...i liked...disciplined it was...i liked...we ate lunch around 12.45? or was it after 1...perfect time...one bird came eating on our puris...we had alu-puri for packed lunch...it was very, very nice morning...time unfolded from a lost past...skies...they sent rain sometimes i think bcos i had my cover...my goretex...
hmmm...where did we stay? oh ya...it was a longish entrance to that place...shed...(kept saying the tour operator's name)...there was a first view of kailash...a couple of chinese women were taking pics across the bridge...we were in Diraphuk...Sadhguru was to arrive the next day...he stayed in an off-white tent...some waited, took pics...they had a satsang...Chinmayananda group had arti...mayr said, falacy of religion or something like that...i wondered why...everything is unto its own...allow things to be...you move through it...
Day 2
The next day...we were to trek up to the north-face of Kailash...while we all started together...d went from the other side...mm, tilk and i...then g...then others...on left...it went on...beautiful views of Kailash...very enjoyable...seemed so real upclose...i mean, it was real...i was sometimes chanting when alone...i don't know why...just wanted a medium to lose track of external environment and go within...i did...again and again...repetition reduces the noise outside...the things that attract senses...the alert mind slowly goes within...in that state...suddenly i found myself near d, mm, tilk...they were on or near a glacier...i don't have much memory of the time...d says i was on left (possibly she/they followed me but how did i move ahead...)...i wanted to go on ahead...and then suddenly we were slipping...going down, down on the ice (glacier covered by scree)...and below was a river...in an odd way, it was home ground...i was very connected with the earth...the surface...there was a big rock...i was holding onto it...but it would slip too...other rocks slipped...slowly we stood up...or held on...sticks...one after the other...g was below near the river (small stream)...he looked nervous when i asked him if he can hold onto sticks...and there was the bag...we took awhile...may be 20min...the others had caught up...they waited...mm and tilk were on the other side...mm making a swimming type action (apparently he meant it's all flat on top...i read it as swim or use your hands?!)...they went away...finally we turned back...then back further...taking pics...this and that...it was nice those moments...some shared human experience...
Tilk and mm returned 5 hours later...we were quite worried...met and spoke to the tibetan head person...to send a sherpa up into the mountains to find them...i remember his eyes...they were big, bulging...something one would say blood-shot...without the blood...the sherpa selected was also a good guy...better than our operators...but we saw our guys up near the flag area (where prash had said, all flags move separately on their own but still do the same thing)...
tilk and mm returned...they were in a diff zone...touched the north face of Kailash...found stones, horses (which seemed like personal effects of people who left them there...prash picked two pieces and gave me...i want to return those pieces to the earth)...g cried...mm also something...reiki that night...and that vicks on the feet that tilk msged about...it was fine...
neerj and mm were to go back the next day...his goretex didn't work...but it also didn't rain after...
Day 3
It was the day of the Dolma La pass...5,600+m...Dr M said on the trek to salkantay...when I asked him about bp and such...bcos Dr. Hegde said don't go up etc. so Dr. M said...go back to the point you've been earlier and see how you feel...i guess that was the reason this was imp or wanted to go about this body thing methodically...crossfit helped clearly...lungs, heart were good...i'm so used to being under-estimated/doubted...mathlab whatever...you have to do your thing...steady...like the tree...being like the tree of however you are wanted...so it was good...this day...
it started in a hurried way...taking dump last minute...rushed...wanted to take that nice kailash pic bcos it opened itself...didn't like the rush...
there were 3 ladies we met along the way...in the pic she closed her eyes ufff...she told me take a sip of the water...i did...flags...buddhist flags on top...loooong cross over...the pass...Dolma La is written in English in its own Chinese way...there was this man...who coughed...when i gave him strepsils he said he had (need lots of strepsils generally)...he took our pic across Gowri Kund (they said don't go down there)...it was fine...green-blue water...the down you had to be used to it...how to go down mountains...then it's easier...
we spent 45min or so at that dhaba down...drinking hot water...there was this boy/man who managed the china-India canteens...he would do this pranaam...the tibetans managing the dhaba...very rough conduct...long, long walk to Zuthulphuk...
We got there...it was nice this shed place...where we stayed...pakodas and tea we got...no bathrooms...all in open...the next morning tilk accompanied me to take a dump...a first for me to look at someone (even in darkness with the head-light)...while taking a dump! anj and others returned very late (9pm or so)...there was something about them returning...i somehow wasn't inclined to go and engage...was letting people be...mayr returned saying hey we helped mamiji get down etc.
Day 4
It was a really short day. We started early morning. Playing that movie-quiz game...it was a nice, pleasant walk...then we talked about favourite foods...bhrti said she liked ribs...ribs...:) nothing from home...d of course said rasam :)
horses would come in the way...towards the end...there was this vast view...mountains in the distance...and solar panels...clouds...vast, vast clouds showing the distance...d said of depth re photos...our eco bus hadn't arrived...it allowed me to go up, take pics...there was this yak horns...it had hair...the black hair...it was something...meaning it was telling me here was a living creature...
[Tibet]: Day 8 - Rakshas Taal, Darchen
We started around 11.30am...(I've written this)...in the eco bus...first stop was at Rakshas Taal...from top...there mm showed me...there were 2 or 3 islands...he's been here 6-7 times...once in the winter...when he simply walked on rakshas taal...to go to the islands...he told me about sven hedin...the swedish explorer...the miracles that have happened with him in the region (mm)...sven hedin had written about a gompa near the rakshas taal area...mm found a tibetan...no language communication...just name of gompa...he took him there...then mm told me a story from the travels of swami pranavananda...he and a fellow traveller/swami were stuck on one of the islands during one of the winters...they survived by taking eggs from a bird (storks or sea gulls)...then they returned to plains...one of them died...mm thought if he could've done it then...why wouldn't he explore now...the region has a deep significance for him...it was nice to see things through his eyes and hear his stories...
we went down to rakshas taal...everyone went down to take pics...didn't took own...beach like area...stones interesting stones...then we continued onto to Darchen...I was busy drawing...it was one of the most enjoyable drawing rides...i was lost...deep into Chiu Gompa...i took a pic...then started drawing...they wanted to touch the book...i wouldn't allow...would show from far bcos people were curious...it was a splendid time...
Darchen suddenly was a city/town again...a chinese one...clean roads...odd structures...red/yellow flags...we reached a large hotel...that had multiple buildings...we were housed in building #3...thankfully no floors...all flat one floor...isha group were near us...they had their own tea and stuff...fruits too...i missed fruits :) the canteen was nice...(on return, i went to the kitchen bcos of hot idlis...wanted to get it...)...there was one boy working there that mayr talked about...from mumbai...he lost all muscle...something.
mm made a nice presentation...kailash felt surreal...from google satellite pics...felt daunting too...i worried...discussion after re wont trek with you bcos etc....called home...thik hai i thot...let life play its part...but it turned out well the next day onwards...in my lost mind, i forgot where i left riche's bag while moving to the main area...searched isha buses...something.
we went down to rakshas taal...everyone went down to take pics...didn't took own...beach like area...stones interesting stones...then we continued onto to Darchen...I was busy drawing...it was one of the most enjoyable drawing rides...i was lost...deep into Chiu Gompa...i took a pic...then started drawing...they wanted to touch the book...i wouldn't allow...would show from far bcos people were curious...it was a splendid time...
Darchen suddenly was a city/town again...a chinese one...clean roads...odd structures...red/yellow flags...we reached a large hotel...that had multiple buildings...we were housed in building #3...thankfully no floors...all flat one floor...isha group were near us...they had their own tea and stuff...fruits too...i missed fruits :) the canteen was nice...(on return, i went to the kitchen bcos of hot idlis...wanted to get it...)...there was one boy working there that mayr talked about...from mumbai...he lost all muscle...something.
mm made a nice presentation...kailash felt surreal...from google satellite pics...felt daunting too...i worried...discussion after re wont trek with you bcos etc....called home...thik hai i thot...let life play its part...but it turned out well the next day onwards...in my lost mind, i forgot where i left riche's bag while moving to the main area...searched isha buses...something.
[Tibet]: Day 7 - Thubba Ri climb (Manasarovar)
Originally, we were to go on an afternoon climb...but some of us were quite energetic in the morning after bfast...and decided to go up the Thubba Ri...right behind Manasarovar.
That morning, I went to the lake...actually both mornings I did kriya there...I'd take a dump (the bathrooms were clean...men on left, women on right (first time that gaddam man said, jaayiye)...for the second last bathroom, the door kept opening so I had to hold onto the latch which was a twine...by my mouth...what fun...i always used water!)...it was peaceful and nice. The second day...because of rain...I ran back...I didn't like that running back...bad idea with the altitude...because we were still acclimatizing...there was that black mountain dog that barked at me...and I asked him to be quiet and go away...I got many visions from the Lake...could easily connect and go back in time...
d and I started together...i remember saying it's nice to walk again...hiatus of 3 years or so...but it just changed quickly...d and tamr disappeared in half hour...different paths...i went through the right side...i kept looking for may be an hour or hour and a half...and then i thot chalo abhi just be...it was nice after...because it was simply me, my body, my being...the land, the lake...
(it's saturday...after returning...am having this white wine, home-made fries with mcd ka peri-peri powder...very tasty happy...body quickly loses capacity to wine...ahan's gone for akshat's bday party in st andrews...suz just back btw some saloon things...life moves all around...chhaaj vs chaas discussion :))
I don't know when I lost track of time and space...but it happened. I was unto my own. Kept seeing back to see Manasarovar in the distance...vast...spectacular...the sun shining brightly...i was in the red sherpa thing (only thing i had)...at one point tilk took pic...he and g were behind...didn't know them that much then...except g and i bunked together once...
there was a river flowing...from top...on its own here and there...winding...possibly joining Manasarovar from somewhere...outside or inside the earth...the earth loved me...holding me...grounded...around the time when I saw the green mycelium and white...something about it...i connected...letting out aka chords to the region...to the lake...and asked tell me about yourself...and the visions came...me in an ancient past...beyond shiva, beyond mythology, beyond sapiens...as a man, as a mother, as a daughter and son...connected deeply to the land...many creatures have roamed here...and me among them...the glaciers melted and settled as a lake...the water rejuvenating they said (12 rivers?)...but rakshas taal doesn't get the sources...so it's salty but manasarovar is not...is it sweet I don't know...I washed up in the evening...
Up there...i found an alter...a stone held up by the ground...i felt that was the point...i went around it, prayed to it even...enjoyed the moments, felt at peace...after that went up further...turned back after 3 hours...tilk and g wanted to go further...and they did...met others on the way back...mayr, king, rich etc.
there was one bird/insect...when you use your tongue to touch your palate and make a tthrrrr tthrrrr sound...that flying friend made that sound...i asked what are you telling me...said, be light, be light...but i realized i wasn't light later...may be i forgot the bird...it was a small bird...small little bird that flew fast...
Rakshas taal was on left...they said Ravana prayed or did tapasya there...and therefore no one dips...mm said the next day...in the winter, he walked on it...went to the islands...that it houses...it was a wonderful moment...on top when i saw rakshas taal from thubba ri, on top on the way further to darchen when mm showed (swami p...someone who along with someone was stuck in the winter...they ate eggs of that migratory bird to survive...then they did...when they returned...the other person died...something like that...sven hedin has written in his notes of a gompa...mm went with a tibetan he found randomly to find that gompa...he did...he kept talking of many miracles he's experienced in the region...)...haan back to rakshas taal...also when we reached the bottom...mm wanted to go near take pics...the group went...it was very hot, sand, sunny...we took pics too...it was super comfortable...
where am I? Dd told me about kahani and katha...kahani has a clear beginning and end...katha we don't know when you branch off...when you don't...katha...he says some interesting things...he's coming for dosa tomorrow...waiting...
Back from Thubba Ri climb (I set myself a clock...3 hours up and then return...i took 1 hr...45min down so did d...she returned after 3 too independently)...met riche and others on the way...on returning I saw the lame way the operators were...dorji non-existent...i lost it on the other boys...that they hardly know what it means to serve trekkers...to go elsewhere and learn...later I realized they knew what to do...they just didn't want to do it...anyway after the scolding...the others got some hot water...food etc.
i think it was that day...anj gave soup packets...dorji stamped on one unintentionally...we had soup...they showed some attention after...but i think there was another tiff...he said 120 degrees mein doonga when I asked for giving it hot...i snapped back...why do you talk like that...then i went to the kitchen tent...spent the time with them...explaining one more time...they stepped up but not so much...it's because the operators were problematic...the group became closer...a common problem...there's always a blessing...
it has to be that day...we went to the shops within the gompa...the kid (they said other kids did too)...the kid he had his pant open at the bum...so when he pooped...he'd be done, washed and shut...meaning the pant had an opening by the bum...his mom and dad owned one of the shop...mom she didn't wash her mouth had food sticking all around it...i wondered why...she made eggs that had water flowing out...I bought 2.5kg jerry can...king bought 3 hats...all transactions in yuan...d ate egg...(I'm eating chillies mixed with sev and onions now!)...
That morning, I went to the lake...actually both mornings I did kriya there...I'd take a dump (the bathrooms were clean...men on left, women on right (first time that gaddam man said, jaayiye)...for the second last bathroom, the door kept opening so I had to hold onto the latch which was a twine...by my mouth...what fun...i always used water!)...it was peaceful and nice. The second day...because of rain...I ran back...I didn't like that running back...bad idea with the altitude...because we were still acclimatizing...there was that black mountain dog that barked at me...and I asked him to be quiet and go away...I got many visions from the Lake...could easily connect and go back in time...
d and I started together...i remember saying it's nice to walk again...hiatus of 3 years or so...but it just changed quickly...d and tamr disappeared in half hour...different paths...i went through the right side...i kept looking for may be an hour or hour and a half...and then i thot chalo abhi just be...it was nice after...because it was simply me, my body, my being...the land, the lake...
(it's saturday...after returning...am having this white wine, home-made fries with mcd ka peri-peri powder...very tasty happy...body quickly loses capacity to wine...ahan's gone for akshat's bday party in st andrews...suz just back btw some saloon things...life moves all around...chhaaj vs chaas discussion :))
I don't know when I lost track of time and space...but it happened. I was unto my own. Kept seeing back to see Manasarovar in the distance...vast...spectacular...the sun shining brightly...i was in the red sherpa thing (only thing i had)...at one point tilk took pic...he and g were behind...didn't know them that much then...except g and i bunked together once...
there was a river flowing...from top...on its own here and there...winding...possibly joining Manasarovar from somewhere...outside or inside the earth...the earth loved me...holding me...grounded...around the time when I saw the green mycelium and white...something about it...i connected...letting out aka chords to the region...to the lake...and asked tell me about yourself...and the visions came...me in an ancient past...beyond shiva, beyond mythology, beyond sapiens...as a man, as a mother, as a daughter and son...connected deeply to the land...many creatures have roamed here...and me among them...the glaciers melted and settled as a lake...the water rejuvenating they said (12 rivers?)...but rakshas taal doesn't get the sources...so it's salty but manasarovar is not...is it sweet I don't know...I washed up in the evening...
Up there...i found an alter...a stone held up by the ground...i felt that was the point...i went around it, prayed to it even...enjoyed the moments, felt at peace...after that went up further...turned back after 3 hours...tilk and g wanted to go further...and they did...met others on the way back...mayr, king, rich etc.
there was one bird/insect...when you use your tongue to touch your palate and make a tthrrrr tthrrrr sound...that flying friend made that sound...i asked what are you telling me...said, be light, be light...but i realized i wasn't light later...may be i forgot the bird...it was a small bird...small little bird that flew fast...
Rakshas taal was on left...they said Ravana prayed or did tapasya there...and therefore no one dips...mm said the next day...in the winter, he walked on it...went to the islands...that it houses...it was a wonderful moment...on top when i saw rakshas taal from thubba ri, on top on the way further to darchen when mm showed (swami p...someone who along with someone was stuck in the winter...they ate eggs of that migratory bird to survive...then they did...when they returned...the other person died...something like that...sven hedin has written in his notes of a gompa...mm went with a tibetan he found randomly to find that gompa...he did...he kept talking of many miracles he's experienced in the region...)...haan back to rakshas taal...also when we reached the bottom...mm wanted to go near take pics...the group went...it was very hot, sand, sunny...we took pics too...it was super comfortable...
where am I? Dd told me about kahani and katha...kahani has a clear beginning and end...katha we don't know when you branch off...when you don't...katha...he says some interesting things...he's coming for dosa tomorrow...waiting...
Back from Thubba Ri climb (I set myself a clock...3 hours up and then return...i took 1 hr...45min down so did d...she returned after 3 too independently)...met riche and others on the way...on returning I saw the lame way the operators were...dorji non-existent...i lost it on the other boys...that they hardly know what it means to serve trekkers...to go elsewhere and learn...later I realized they knew what to do...they just didn't want to do it...anyway after the scolding...the others got some hot water...food etc.
i think it was that day...anj gave soup packets...dorji stamped on one unintentionally...we had soup...they showed some attention after...but i think there was another tiff...he said 120 degrees mein doonga when I asked for giving it hot...i snapped back...why do you talk like that...then i went to the kitchen tent...spent the time with them...explaining one more time...they stepped up but not so much...it's because the operators were problematic...the group became closer...a common problem...there's always a blessing...
it has to be that day...we went to the shops within the gompa...the kid (they said other kids did too)...the kid he had his pant open at the bum...so when he pooped...he'd be done, washed and shut...meaning the pant had an opening by the bum...his mom and dad owned one of the shop...mom she didn't wash her mouth had food sticking all around it...i wondered why...she made eggs that had water flowing out...I bought 2.5kg jerry can...king bought 3 hats...all transactions in yuan...d ate egg...(I'm eating chillies mixed with sev and onions now!)...
Saturday, September 8, 2018
[Tibet]: Day 7 or 8 - Trugo Gompa live notes
Days are indeed flying. I've lost track. I'm dull this morning. Sort of bored? Yday was very interesting. Morning I did kriya by the lake. Water lapping slowly...a dog (mountain dog) came before I started. I told it to go away and allow me to do. I ate well - porridge, apple, bread, granola, coffee. People talking, talking. The vastness of Manasarovar is surreal. She told me how everything melted and settled as a lake. A lot has happened since. Many creatures have roamed these lands. I was here before. A shooting star went by in the wee hours of the morning as I sat there - I asked for peace to accept me as I am and to just be. Amy had given me that peace circle...it's in the green bag. It rained as soon as I finished. First slowly, then fast fast. I couldn't find those black quick-dry undies. I also think I left that pyjama pants in that Chinese hotel in Saga.
There was a deeply spiritual experience...the green mushrooms, mycelium. Then there was those small white mushrooms...soft texture...brain-like. The mind keeps going here and there. All the time. We kid ourselves to find what we seek here and there. Our cave is inside. So many things keep happening here and there - all around...kabhi this...kabhi that. What's the point?
May be I'm sleepy. People kept getting up. Sleeping late. Snoring. Brahma time 3.30am. Slept in spurts...
Conversation with Nongchuk...
d has a very good intuitive sense...natural...almost after first day, she said this guy can't be trusted...it turned out that way...anyway...this was my conv with him...our tibetan guide.
Born in 1975. Parents and grandparents were farmers. He lived in Mysore for 10 years...said he studied...math, physics, chemistry...all the basic subjects. Chinese officials threaten his family (will harm them) if he communicates with people in India. His sister is in India...Dharamshala or northeast. They communicate by WeChat and he's always concerned about the photos she sends...in case there's some tibetan flag in the background. Has a 13 year old daughter...wants to tell her about Buddhism etc. but never talks to her about Dalai Lama...if by chance, she utters...then she'll be de-barred permanently from school and education.
Earlier the tibetans couldn't afford healthcare...now the Chinese govt...provides free insurance...maternity is covered. So they started having more children...it's always interesting to see the link between policy and social change. It's sometimes so practical. Imagine being that child...born...because your parents got insurance...
We talked about bride price. Some chinese can't afford - car, house etc. that they need to give in order to marry. So they get married to Tibetan girls. Otherwise the mixing is very limited. Tibetans don't feel comfortable around the Chinese. They seem very afraid and nervous around them. He said...the driver and he won't sit together to eat.
Something about Panchen Lama...was arrested when he was 6 years. I have to read...but something about a Lama who was forced to marry into Chinese...then they said they'd allow him to open or reopen monasteries...which he did. Some Tibetans regard him highly that he made that sacrifice.
So was interested in my conversation...stepped in. she seemed knowledgeable about the tibetan condition and talked about a few books. but I stepped out. she wrote and sent us this article later.
*
Nongchuk kept smoking every now and then. They are blessed with good lungs. Mountain lungs that can climb easily. He wasn't clear...open. He was doing his chanting etc. in Saga...I noticed. It seemed fine then. When I went to talk to Dorji in the kitchen tent...he was sitting with whiskey bottle...that's fine...but it was at the cost of being alert to client needs...which never existed. He said bye etc. Prash and mm went to greet bye. I saw from a distance...at that border. Seeing that I'll never see him again. I often think of this nowadays...most people I see, I'll never see again. Was telling ahan too the other day on way to school...why daddy, he said.
*
more random live notes...
When will I ? Silence. Wtf. People. heart. Gunshots. Kiang. What will they think? Conscious. Can you? Sausages. Swami. Climb. Whiskey. Nongchuk. Buddha. Angst. So much. Odd. Eyes open. Authentic. PS. Talking. Quiet. Rakshas Tal. Friend. Human. Neanderthal. Me.
There was a deeply spiritual experience...the green mushrooms, mycelium. Then there was those small white mushrooms...soft texture...brain-like. The mind keeps going here and there. All the time. We kid ourselves to find what we seek here and there. Our cave is inside. So many things keep happening here and there - all around...kabhi this...kabhi that. What's the point?
May be I'm sleepy. People kept getting up. Sleeping late. Snoring. Brahma time 3.30am. Slept in spurts...
Conversation with Nongchuk...
d has a very good intuitive sense...natural...almost after first day, she said this guy can't be trusted...it turned out that way...anyway...this was my conv with him...our tibetan guide.
Born in 1975. Parents and grandparents were farmers. He lived in Mysore for 10 years...said he studied...math, physics, chemistry...all the basic subjects. Chinese officials threaten his family (will harm them) if he communicates with people in India. His sister is in India...Dharamshala or northeast. They communicate by WeChat and he's always concerned about the photos she sends...in case there's some tibetan flag in the background. Has a 13 year old daughter...wants to tell her about Buddhism etc. but never talks to her about Dalai Lama...if by chance, she utters...then she'll be de-barred permanently from school and education.
Earlier the tibetans couldn't afford healthcare...now the Chinese govt...provides free insurance...maternity is covered. So they started having more children...it's always interesting to see the link between policy and social change. It's sometimes so practical. Imagine being that child...born...because your parents got insurance...
We talked about bride price. Some chinese can't afford - car, house etc. that they need to give in order to marry. So they get married to Tibetan girls. Otherwise the mixing is very limited. Tibetans don't feel comfortable around the Chinese. They seem very afraid and nervous around them. He said...the driver and he won't sit together to eat.
Something about Panchen Lama...was arrested when he was 6 years. I have to read...but something about a Lama who was forced to marry into Chinese...then they said they'd allow him to open or reopen monasteries...which he did. Some Tibetans regard him highly that he made that sacrifice.
So was interested in my conversation...stepped in. she seemed knowledgeable about the tibetan condition and talked about a few books. but I stepped out. she wrote and sent us this article later.
*
Nongchuk kept smoking every now and then. They are blessed with good lungs. Mountain lungs that can climb easily. He wasn't clear...open. He was doing his chanting etc. in Saga...I noticed. It seemed fine then. When I went to talk to Dorji in the kitchen tent...he was sitting with whiskey bottle...that's fine...but it was at the cost of being alert to client needs...which never existed. He said bye etc. Prash and mm went to greet bye. I saw from a distance...at that border. Seeing that I'll never see him again. I often think of this nowadays...most people I see, I'll never see again. Was telling ahan too the other day on way to school...why daddy, he said.
*
more random live notes...
When will I ? Silence. Wtf. People. heart. Gunshots. Kiang. What will they think? Conscious. Can you? Sausages. Swami. Climb. Whiskey. Nongchuk. Buddha. Angst. So much. Odd. Eyes open. Authentic. PS. Talking. Quiet. Rakshas Tal. Friend. Human. Neanderthal. Me.
[Tibet]: Day 5-6-7 Manasarovar
Manasarovar is at 4,590m...high. It was spectacular every which way we saw it. It was a very long drive. 10+ hours. Nothing of course compared to what we'd have on the return. There was a delayed start from Saga...bfast poha upma thing...long discussion in the bus...re mm, then the dazed thing, patterns...i irritated (rather bored must be)...odd entry it was into Manasarovar...but a spectacular one.
It was late evening (possibly night) when we arrived at the visitor's center. A huge structure again. There was a basketball court outside. Some solar panels (these were everywhere). The visitor's center somewhat indicated a tourist spot...it shows what'll become of the place. It'll be a tourist destination. Large pics of birds inside the center. One vast map of the region...showing Darchen...Mt. Kailash (I liked the map)...we took pics in front of Manasarovar.
Then we waited for an ecofriendly bus - which wasn't all that eco friendly - meaning they filled the same gas etc. Anyways we shifted into it...and went along the perimeter of the Lake. It got darker...was difficult to drive. It looked like the Pacific ocean in some respects. Reminded me of that beautiful day with prad...we unexpectedly went there. There were ducks and such...swimming...just like that day...something peaceful unto itself...high up above the world. In some ways it was surreal to think that we were so high up...and yet it feels so normal or something.
The ride went on and on. Riche took pics of a Tibetan family...people make the place, she said. The sun never set. Almost. We got lost a bit too - crossed Trugo Gompa where we were to stay...then turned back. Some of us got to moving the bags...Dorji again was only too happy to allow...I'm thinking about it now. mm would be the first always to get moving. even there. he did it even at the road crossing place...almost seamlessly now that I think about it.
We stayed in Trugo Gompa (monastery)...in dorm-style accommodations. 5 to a room...two of the rooms were attached. Next day (late afternoon when we returned after acclimatization trek), a small bird was stuck inside the room...it was bright and sunny outside. then we opened the window...it went out...small bird.
It was nice...the dorm-style...tamr and I were head-to-head...dd and prash toe-to-toe next room ("he kicked, then instinctively I kicked")...thakurji other side spreading all his stuff...mayr near the window in his maroon cheddis...tilk across me...mm next room...g next room...kumr too. then all the women other room...
With fatigue...everyone simply slept. There was talk about Brahma muhurtam at 3am etc. to go to the lake...some went that night too...kumr, mayr, tilk went to smoke weed or something...they came back stoned...talking about such a big shooting star...and in the clouds they say shivji or something. stoned. :)
It was late evening (possibly night) when we arrived at the visitor's center. A huge structure again. There was a basketball court outside. Some solar panels (these were everywhere). The visitor's center somewhat indicated a tourist spot...it shows what'll become of the place. It'll be a tourist destination. Large pics of birds inside the center. One vast map of the region...showing Darchen...Mt. Kailash (I liked the map)...we took pics in front of Manasarovar.
Then we waited for an ecofriendly bus - which wasn't all that eco friendly - meaning they filled the same gas etc. Anyways we shifted into it...and went along the perimeter of the Lake. It got darker...was difficult to drive. It looked like the Pacific ocean in some respects. Reminded me of that beautiful day with prad...we unexpectedly went there. There were ducks and such...swimming...just like that day...something peaceful unto itself...high up above the world. In some ways it was surreal to think that we were so high up...and yet it feels so normal or something.
The ride went on and on. Riche took pics of a Tibetan family...people make the place, she said. The sun never set. Almost. We got lost a bit too - crossed Trugo Gompa where we were to stay...then turned back. Some of us got to moving the bags...Dorji again was only too happy to allow...I'm thinking about it now. mm would be the first always to get moving. even there. he did it even at the road crossing place...almost seamlessly now that I think about it.
We stayed in Trugo Gompa (monastery)...in dorm-style accommodations. 5 to a room...two of the rooms were attached. Next day (late afternoon when we returned after acclimatization trek), a small bird was stuck inside the room...it was bright and sunny outside. then we opened the window...it went out...small bird.
It was nice...the dorm-style...tamr and I were head-to-head...dd and prash toe-to-toe next room ("he kicked, then instinctively I kicked")...thakurji other side spreading all his stuff...mayr near the window in his maroon cheddis...tilk across me...mm next room...g next room...kumr too. then all the women other room...
With fatigue...everyone simply slept. There was talk about Brahma muhurtam at 3am etc. to go to the lake...some went that night too...kumr, mayr, tilk went to smoke weed or something...they came back stoned...talking about such a big shooting star...and in the clouds they say shivji or something. stoned. :)
Friday, September 7, 2018
[Tibet]: Day 4 - random notes live
We are in a Chinese bus. Everyday washes the previous day away. Every moment too - sometimes. mm and I went to a monastery by chance. Pagma? An old Tibetan lady with many wrinkles sat there. Wonderful smile. He also peeped in to see where they were lighting the lamps...one dark room. China's morphed Tibet. Today is imp day for Padma Sambhava. A group gathered across Seth hotel in a tea-shop chanting for the wellbeing of the Dalai Lama.
It's funny how it looked...the border crossing. It's the same mountains. And we divide it We say this is you, this is us. Then we build a friendship bridge. Then we check phones for photos of the Dalai Lama. What if he's in your heart? What do you do then?
The security guards who checked us - after duty - they stayed in one large Communist era type building. At a certain time, blaring indoctrination music played. I've seen it in the movies. They wore green uniforms and mostly walked in a file. Then we all ate in that Chinese Sichuan restaurant. Mapo tofu...mayr kept saying.
It's funny how it looked...the border crossing. It's the same mountains. And we divide it We say this is you, this is us. Then we build a friendship bridge. Then we check phones for photos of the Dalai Lama. What if he's in your heart? What do you do then?
The security guards who checked us - after duty - they stayed in one large Communist era type building. At a certain time, blaring indoctrination music played. I've seen it in the movies. They wore green uniforms and mostly walked in a file. Then we all ate in that Chinese Sichuan restaurant. Mapo tofu...mayr kept saying.
[Tibet]: Day 3 and Day 4 - Crossing over to Tibet...Kerung, Saga
We started late I recall from Shyafru Besi....(I'm in barista and I see that girl who nervously keeps biting off her nails and smokes and hurriedly uses the paying machine herself to pay...oh well...)...we got off at that last point prior to Friendship Bridge. We walked 2km or so to reach it. It was the first time everyone was walking...I recall walking with Bhrti...at the border, we waited for a really long time. Because the computers on the chinese side weren't working? (the connectivity wasn't).
I recall chatting with one of Nepalese army people...he showed me his pic with a lady who's climbed Everest multiple times. Some green color dress? She looked like anyone.
Friendship bridge...the nepalese and tibetans are very nervous of the chinese. The bridge...it's easy to see (based on what you see on the other side) on which friend is powerful...on the Tibetan side...a big huge structure...on Nepalese side...nothing...we sat waiting on the chinese/tibetan side. They checked our phones for dalai lama pics. mm's maps - he had to explain.
Later when they closed...we saw the chinese military kinda march into a communist-style building. big structure. there was indoctrination music playing...blaring. we sat in a chinese restaurant across eating. Dorji commented, "kitna khayega"...
The bus, the roads, the security etc. were suddenly distinctly different...way more efficient...chinese. a very able driver (more on him later)...the nepalese and tibetan guide (whom we met there...nongchuk)...were also afraid (or too worried) about the driver too. he hardly ever spoke. kept checking on the bus methodically...kept it clean too.
We reached Seth hotel...odd place it was. A Chinese family managed it. They were all on a bed at the reception...each watching some entertainment in their own device...while keeping an eye on the cctv cameras. We were in Kerung...it looked like a chinese town. I keep getting confused between Kerung and Saga...ufff.
I went shopping for a t-shirt (that's Kerung)...I was running out or not...but for some reason was annoyed of not having that dri-fit type...anyways...that day or the previous day, I sweat like crazy during the bag carrying time. Went to 3 or 4 shops before settling on what I saw in the first shop...one white longsleeve. Funnily...I was big size for the town...all t-shirts were small for me. they said i can't roam around like that in Saga...the chinese would capture me and bring me back (nothing of the sort I noticed...).
I liked the China-India canteen in this town. There was one bearded man (whom we met also on the return)...he would do full folded arms...and ask politely what we needed etc. Very seva oriented type. On the way there, I heard a telugu lady say...kailasam ikkade choopisthunnadu...she must've said to her husband. I spoke to her later...and also in Darchen (they finished going to Yama dwar that day). She said...okkare vachchara...i said...no, I'm with all these people...no, no she said...okkare vachchara...oh yes, I said yes.
That night anj took dorji's trip on water...i heard from d later...made sure he gave water to everyone. it started in that canteen...the discord on water...
The next day...mm and i walked around near seth hotel and ended up at the pangma (or so) monastery...it was very nice...i noticed him saying tashta-de...and picked it up...it was a nice pleasant morning and start. i remember talking to dorji re his behavior...outside the bus...this time round i was friendly...explaining...trying to make him understand...be friendly, watch your words...no avail i realized only later.
It was raining...landslides...one of the buses got stuck. we kept seeing other buses...isha group...it was clear to me then...that our trip was going to be closely similar to those of others...i kinda felt this the first time i read through the itinerary...we were simply following each other...the river ran into the road towards the entry to Saga...and lot of kichad...we saw how our driver wonderfully drove through the river and over onto that kichad mound to the top...fantastic!
We reached...either day 4 or 5 into Saga...somewhat during day light...lots of people...it was a huge hotel...a huge building/structure...very weird. lots of people (yatris) standing around. no rooms. we were all bunked into large rooms. but it was fun...i'm mixing up the times and days...but this night...some 5 of us bunked...i on the floor (my preference)...farting, snoring...loud, loud...lots of poop talk...it was also the night when kumr sir was walking around in his cheddis...and that chinese girl came to check on us...whether we all had blankets (no we didn't)...funny.
haan...next day...we stayed on here i think but we shifted to other rooms...it was also the time when soni had altitude sickness...a bad bout. g called sangay...or messaged him calling him shameless etc. (for the rooms).
the night...we went to tibetan place for dinner...people had yaksha (yak meat)...and the bathroom there was beautiful...open (no roof)...it was kinda snowing or raining...the light at dusk...
that next day...some briefing was there in the afternoon...it was the time when that dazed conflict happened. i was feeling somewhat sick...i don't know why. but i was also getting annoyed (that wasting-time-here feeling)...with the briefing. some arguments. the questioning face. we were to buy jerry cans for mansarovar water...i asked a yatri...what they did...he said a tibetan girl runs to the bus to sell (she didn't but there were plenty of cans in two shops)...anyways...tamr and i walked along with nong-chuk (by that time, i figured he was not efficient too)...we went here and there to many hardware stores...finally we picked up one 10kg one...tamr was insistent on a box, nongchuk insistent that we buy juice bottles and empty them...someone else something...you don't like discussions...said. anyways...that was that night. i didn't feel like eating much. was very low energy...not sure why. i simply went to sleep. d came to meet almost at that time...smiling, chatting about dinner (they went to the sichuan place) etc. it was nice.
so we were all ready to go to mansarovar...
I recall chatting with one of Nepalese army people...he showed me his pic with a lady who's climbed Everest multiple times. Some green color dress? She looked like anyone.
Friendship bridge...the nepalese and tibetans are very nervous of the chinese. The bridge...it's easy to see (based on what you see on the other side) on which friend is powerful...on the Tibetan side...a big huge structure...on Nepalese side...nothing...we sat waiting on the chinese/tibetan side. They checked our phones for dalai lama pics. mm's maps - he had to explain.
Later when they closed...we saw the chinese military kinda march into a communist-style building. big structure. there was indoctrination music playing...blaring. we sat in a chinese restaurant across eating. Dorji commented, "kitna khayega"...
The bus, the roads, the security etc. were suddenly distinctly different...way more efficient...chinese. a very able driver (more on him later)...the nepalese and tibetan guide (whom we met there...nongchuk)...were also afraid (or too worried) about the driver too. he hardly ever spoke. kept checking on the bus methodically...kept it clean too.
We reached Seth hotel...odd place it was. A Chinese family managed it. They were all on a bed at the reception...each watching some entertainment in their own device...while keeping an eye on the cctv cameras. We were in Kerung...it looked like a chinese town. I keep getting confused between Kerung and Saga...ufff.
I went shopping for a t-shirt (that's Kerung)...I was running out or not...but for some reason was annoyed of not having that dri-fit type...anyways...that day or the previous day, I sweat like crazy during the bag carrying time. Went to 3 or 4 shops before settling on what I saw in the first shop...one white longsleeve. Funnily...I was big size for the town...all t-shirts were small for me. they said i can't roam around like that in Saga...the chinese would capture me and bring me back (nothing of the sort I noticed...).
I liked the China-India canteen in this town. There was one bearded man (whom we met also on the return)...he would do full folded arms...and ask politely what we needed etc. Very seva oriented type. On the way there, I heard a telugu lady say...kailasam ikkade choopisthunnadu...she must've said to her husband. I spoke to her later...and also in Darchen (they finished going to Yama dwar that day). She said...okkare vachchara...i said...no, I'm with all these people...no, no she said...okkare vachchara...oh yes, I said yes.
That night anj took dorji's trip on water...i heard from d later...made sure he gave water to everyone. it started in that canteen...the discord on water...
The next day...mm and i walked around near seth hotel and ended up at the pangma (or so) monastery...it was very nice...i noticed him saying tashta-de...and picked it up...it was a nice pleasant morning and start. i remember talking to dorji re his behavior...outside the bus...this time round i was friendly...explaining...trying to make him understand...be friendly, watch your words...no avail i realized only later.
It was raining...landslides...one of the buses got stuck. we kept seeing other buses...isha group...it was clear to me then...that our trip was going to be closely similar to those of others...i kinda felt this the first time i read through the itinerary...we were simply following each other...the river ran into the road towards the entry to Saga...and lot of kichad...we saw how our driver wonderfully drove through the river and over onto that kichad mound to the top...fantastic!
We reached...either day 4 or 5 into Saga...somewhat during day light...lots of people...it was a huge hotel...a huge building/structure...very weird. lots of people (yatris) standing around. no rooms. we were all bunked into large rooms. but it was fun...i'm mixing up the times and days...but this night...some 5 of us bunked...i on the floor (my preference)...farting, snoring...loud, loud...lots of poop talk...it was also the night when kumr sir was walking around in his cheddis...and that chinese girl came to check on us...whether we all had blankets (no we didn't)...funny.
haan...next day...we stayed on here i think but we shifted to other rooms...it was also the time when soni had altitude sickness...a bad bout. g called sangay...or messaged him calling him shameless etc. (for the rooms).
the night...we went to tibetan place for dinner...people had yaksha (yak meat)...and the bathroom there was beautiful...open (no roof)...it was kinda snowing or raining...the light at dusk...
that next day...some briefing was there in the afternoon...it was the time when that dazed conflict happened. i was feeling somewhat sick...i don't know why. but i was also getting annoyed (that wasting-time-here feeling)...with the briefing. some arguments. the questioning face. we were to buy jerry cans for mansarovar water...i asked a yatri...what they did...he said a tibetan girl runs to the bus to sell (she didn't but there were plenty of cans in two shops)...anyways...tamr and i walked along with nong-chuk (by that time, i figured he was not efficient too)...we went here and there to many hardware stores...finally we picked up one 10kg one...tamr was insistent on a box, nongchuk insistent that we buy juice bottles and empty them...someone else something...you don't like discussions...said. anyways...that was that night. i didn't feel like eating much. was very low energy...not sure why. i simply went to sleep. d came to meet almost at that time...smiling, chatting about dinner (they went to the sichuan place) etc. it was nice.
so we were all ready to go to mansarovar...
[Tibet]: Day 2 - Shyafru besi (Rasuwa, Nepal) - border of Tibet
We started driving in the morning. Long drive. The terrain kept changing. More than one person said not to stand towards the edge...there's much community memory about landslides. The river was rough and wild. On the way, we opened various food packets...khakras I remember. I recall chatting with a few of the boys (drivers)...they were called at random to do the drive the previous night. Someone said, it was the Trishuli river...it met another river along the way.
There were two places where the road had given away to the river. One I remember very well. We carried our bags and those of others...to the other side. I guess it was the first time I noticed that Dorji (our operator) was ineffective - he seemed all too happy that we were carrying all the bags.
Wasn't it that afternoon we ate lunch at that nice Nepalese place - they had brass utensils...or was it the next day? Tasty food. And that boy with nice hair who smiled freely.
Evening we reached Peaceful Hotel at Shyafru Besi. Shyafru was spelt in various ways on the shops. It was an interesting town. I roamed around. Sat and drew in one spot...until the mosquitos came. There was a path down to a hotspring...tato pani it said. There was a kinda disco. A bakery called Full Moon. There were trucks parked...a road that winded up (to where I was). There were children...babies. A barber shop that gave cool looking cuts that shaved off lot of hair on the sides into designs.
That night I saw a pic of Lhasa on the wall...and was quite surprised. How could that be Lhasa? It was a big city...with many buildings...it looked like no other...I tried to fit in with the group and the conversations but couldn't do so easily...something about 20 eggs...I remember that...it was g who said...we'll pay for it...it was also the first time...multiple decision or indecision points emerged in the group...There were books there. The next morning Mayr banged the door...woke up in a jolt. I didn't like it.
There were two places where the road had given away to the river. One I remember very well. We carried our bags and those of others...to the other side. I guess it was the first time I noticed that Dorji (our operator) was ineffective - he seemed all too happy that we were carrying all the bags.
Wasn't it that afternoon we ate lunch at that nice Nepalese place - they had brass utensils...or was it the next day? Tasty food. And that boy with nice hair who smiled freely.
Evening we reached Peaceful Hotel at Shyafru Besi. Shyafru was spelt in various ways on the shops. It was an interesting town. I roamed around. Sat and drew in one spot...until the mosquitos came. There was a path down to a hotspring...tato pani it said. There was a kinda disco. A bakery called Full Moon. There were trucks parked...a road that winded up (to where I was). There were children...babies. A barber shop that gave cool looking cuts that shaved off lot of hair on the sides into designs.
That night I saw a pic of Lhasa on the wall...and was quite surprised. How could that be Lhasa? It was a big city...with many buildings...it looked like no other...I tried to fit in with the group and the conversations but couldn't do so easily...something about 20 eggs...I remember that...it was g who said...we'll pay for it...it was also the first time...multiple decision or indecision points emerged in the group...There were books there. The next morning Mayr banged the door...woke up in a jolt. I didn't like it.
[Tibet]: Day 1 - Kathmandu
The first time I went to Kathmandu was in 2002...with s, before the mbas began. We went here and then to kerala. Later it was during ebc in 2012 I think...we stayed in thamel. We stayed close to thamel now too...in a hotel called Shankar. I met riche in mumbai...seeing a fellow-trekker was good after a long time. Easy to spot with the shoes. funny how she knew peter-s...from schartered...and i met him in boston...how things connect. i remember his maroon sweater...it had a hole. the driver from the airport insisted it was sunday and not saturday...then we figured he just called shaniwar as sunday.
We had a longish briefing from Sangay...it was ok...I remember sitting and drinking a lot of water.
anyway...the group met...i met d...mm after a long time...kumr after wow really long...night we went to shop...then ate at a hot-pot chinese place. the lady didn't speak anything other than chinese and she accepted only yuan. this was still thamel! something she said...samo-samo...it was funny. it just was a wonderful night...unexpected, human.
We had a longish briefing from Sangay...it was ok...I remember sitting and drinking a lot of water.
anyway...the group met...i met d...mm after a long time...kumr after wow really long...night we went to shop...then ate at a hot-pot chinese place. the lady didn't speak anything other than chinese and she accepted only yuan. this was still thamel! something she said...samo-samo...it was funny. it just was a wonderful night...unexpected, human.
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