Sunday, September 9, 2018

[Tibet]: Day 9, 10, 11, 12 - Kailash

We left everything in Darchen. Our bags were small...3 or 4 packed into one duffel provided by the operators. I don't have any notes...only memories.

It was a pleasant start...mostly with d. rivers were flowing through mountains...slow, gentle climb. our pace was steady...there was this old tibetan man (I'd say "tash-ta-de") with a walking stick...lines on his face...smiling...wide teeth...mustache...he could've been from peru or elsewhere...all the same...our faces are old...they connect...deeply...our lines are from our past...flowing into the present...

tibetan buddhists...doing the kora (parikrama)...by prostrating...someone said it takes them 13 days...but i didn't see people doing it all the way...some would get out of cars...she was wearing pink rubber slippers in her hands...while prostrating...it was interesting to see...bonn (pre-buddhist religion...nongchuk called it)...they were doing the kora anti-clockwise...even turning the wheel anti-clockwise...who's to know how to find god...your god...some greeted...om namah shivaya...some were on ponies...the tibetan horse-men and women looked fine...smiling...

there were breaks...methodical ones...i liked...disciplined it was...i liked...we ate lunch around 12.45? or was it after 1...perfect time...one bird came eating on our puris...we had alu-puri for packed lunch...it was very, very nice morning...time unfolded from a lost past...skies...they sent rain sometimes i think bcos i had my cover...my goretex...

hmmm...where did we stay? oh ya...it was a longish entrance to that place...shed...(kept saying the tour operator's name)...there was a first view of kailash...a couple of chinese women were taking pics across the bridge...we were in Diraphuk...Sadhguru was to arrive the next day...he stayed in an off-white tent...some waited, took pics...they had a satsang...Chinmayananda group had arti...mayr said, falacy of religion or something like that...i wondered why...everything is unto its own...allow things to be...you move through it...

Day 2
The next day...we were to trek up to the north-face of Kailash...while we all started together...d went from the other side...mm, tilk and i...then g...then others...on left...it went on...beautiful views of Kailash...very enjoyable...seemed so real upclose...i mean, it was real...i was sometimes chanting when alone...i don't know why...just wanted a medium to lose track of external environment and go within...i did...again and again...repetition reduces the noise outside...the things that attract senses...the alert mind slowly goes within...in that state...suddenly i found myself near d, mm, tilk...they were on or near a glacier...i don't have much memory of the time...d says i was on left (possibly she/they followed me but how did i move ahead...)...i wanted to go on ahead...and then suddenly we were slipping...going down, down on the ice (glacier covered by scree)...and below was a river...in an odd way, it was home ground...i was very connected with the earth...the surface...there was a big rock...i was holding onto it...but it would slip too...other rocks slipped...slowly we stood up...or held on...sticks...one after the other...g was below near the river (small stream)...he looked nervous when i asked him if he can hold onto sticks...and there was the bag...we took awhile...may be 20min...the others had caught up...they waited...mm and tilk were on the other side...mm making a swimming type action (apparently he meant it's all flat on top...i read it as swim or use your hands?!)...they went away...finally we turned back...then back further...taking pics...this and that...it was nice those moments...some shared human experience...

Tilk and mm returned 5 hours later...we were quite worried...met and spoke to the tibetan head person...to send a sherpa up into the mountains to find them...i remember his eyes...they were big, bulging...something one would say blood-shot...without the blood...the sherpa selected was also a good guy...better than our operators...but we saw our guys up near the flag area (where prash had said, all flags move separately on their own but still do the same thing)...

tilk and mm returned...they were in a diff zone...touched the north face of Kailash...found stones, horses (which seemed like personal effects of people who left them there...prash picked two pieces and gave me...i want to return those pieces to the earth)...g cried...mm also something...reiki that night...and that vicks on the feet that tilk msged about...it was fine...

neerj and mm were to go back the next day...his goretex didn't work...but it also didn't rain after...

Day 3
It was the day of the Dolma La pass...5,600+m...Dr M said on the trek to salkantay...when I asked him about bp and such...bcos Dr. Hegde said don't go up etc. so Dr. M said...go back to the point you've been earlier and see how you feel...i guess that was the reason this was imp or wanted to go about this body thing methodically...crossfit helped clearly...lungs, heart were good...i'm so used to being under-estimated/doubted...mathlab whatever...you have to do your thing...steady...like the tree...being like the tree of however you are wanted...so it was good...this day...

it started in a hurried way...taking dump last minute...rushed...wanted to take that nice kailash pic bcos it opened itself...didn't like the rush...

there were 3 ladies we met along the way...in the pic she closed her eyes ufff...she told me take a sip of the water...i did...flags...buddhist flags on top...loooong cross over...the pass...Dolma La is written in English in its own Chinese way...there was this man...who coughed...when i gave him strepsils he said he had (need lots of strepsils generally)...he took our pic across Gowri Kund (they said don't go down there)...it was fine...green-blue water...the down you had to be used to it...how to go down mountains...then it's easier...

we spent 45min or so at that dhaba down...drinking hot water...there was this boy/man who managed the china-India canteens...he would do this pranaam...the tibetans managing the dhaba...very rough conduct...long, long walk to Zuthulphuk...

We got there...it was nice this shed place...where we stayed...pakodas and tea we got...no bathrooms...all in open...the next morning tilk accompanied me to take a dump...a first for me to look at someone (even in darkness with the head-light)...while taking a dump! anj and others returned very late (9pm or so)...there was something about them returning...i somehow wasn't inclined to go and engage...was letting people be...mayr returned saying hey we helped mamiji get down etc.

Day 4
It was a really short day. We started early morning. Playing that movie-quiz game...it was a nice, pleasant walk...then we talked about favourite foods...bhrti said she liked ribs...ribs...:) nothing from home...d of course said rasam :)

horses would come in the way...towards the end...there was this vast view...mountains in the distance...and solar panels...clouds...vast, vast clouds showing the distance...d said of depth re photos...our eco bus hadn't arrived...it allowed me to go up, take pics...there was this yak horns...it had hair...the black hair...it was something...meaning it was telling me here was a living creature...

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